UKH

Rockfax Description
A direct line with intricate climbing that leads to an exposed finale. Sustained but never desperate with plenty of fiddly gear and helpful hidden holds. High in the grade. Start at the base of the alcove between Dream.. and Wen.
1) 5a, 25m. From the alcove, climb onto the blunt-topped pinnacle. Continue above to beneath the corner. Traverse left round the arete. Move up and continue on good holds to a belay.
2) 5b, 45m. Climb the thin crack behind the belay for 10m. A tricky sequence rightwards leads to Dream... and an ancient peg. Continue upwards, first left and then back right to a small roof. Pullover this at its widest point. A wide crack leads to a small stance.
3) 5a, 18m. Step right and climb the vague crack that fizzles out beneath the final wall. Plug in an extra runner and continue to the top on huge holds; jug pulling in the sky! © Rockfax

Ticklists

Gogarth Extreme Gems, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist

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User Date Notes
Guy Harris 10 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Lovely climbing
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 23
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 20
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Quartz Icicle

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)
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