A phenomenal and historically significant climb that has become harder over the years due to hold loss. Follow Athanor to above the steep crack, then traverse along and up onto a rampline that is climbed to below overhangs (old decaying gear here). Move up and then left. Continue up past a peg until a series of hard moves left reaches a good finger-crack. Move left again to a short wall that ends below further overhangs. Head up past the overhangs to easier-angled ground and finish up the cleanest line on the left. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The name speaks for itself. Still possible without the undercut but a long reach is needed to clip a peg on the Direct Variation. Without the peg it's a bold E6.
P Livesey 19/Apr/1974.
Extreme Rock, Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff, Fast & Free: Pete Livesay's Top 30 British Classics, Ultimate E5 ticklist, Lakeland's Greatest Pioneers, Borrowdale FRCC Guide 'Top Fives', Nuts of Legends
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