Loading Notifications...
18m.

Rockfax Description
The tall left-hand arete of the buttress is excellent and mild. Climb the central crack and make a short traverse left to the arete at the earliest opportunity. This is then followed throughout with good runners in the breaks and lovely positions. The route is very photogenic from either side. © Rockfax

FA. David Penlington 1952.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, 100 More Classic British VS Climbs, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Eastern Peak Grit 100 VD- VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Chatsworth to Bamford, Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), On Peak Rock, Consolidation and developmental path to VS, Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions, The Gritlist, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Amberrosebrown 21 Sep Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant route! Loved it!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant route! Loved it!!
Iain Thow 17 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: As everyone says, just lovely. Great position, comfortable jams, friction, high posing factor.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: As everyone says, just lovely. Great position, comfortable jams, friction, high posing factor.
krisb 18 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Climbing the face of the narrow buttress makes it easier and very mild at the grade. Sticking to the holds on the arete is a little harder and definately better, although requires more discipline (guess thats why "contrived and eliminate" in a previous comment). Narrowness of the arete/buttress does give a pleasant degree of exposure although never really feels "out there" - possibly because of potential escape rightwards (to a vdiff) on all but the final positions.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Climbing the face of the narrow buttress makes it easier and very mild at the grade. Sticking to the holds on the arete is a little harder and definately better, although requires more discipline (guess thats why "contrived and eliminate" in a previous comment). Narrowness of the arete/buttress does give a pleasant degree of exposure although never really feels "out there" - possibly because of potential escape rightwards (to a vdiff) on all but the final positions.
Rampikino 12 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Contrived and eliminate?? That couldn't be further from the truth. The line is perfect, natural and in a wonderful position. The climbing is excellent. Deserves the 3 stars and miserable grumps should stay away. LOL
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Contrived and eliminate?? That couldn't be further from the truth. The line is perfect, natural and in a wonderful position. The climbing is excellent. Deserves the 3 stars and miserable grumps should stay away. LOL
TobyA 6 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Rather contrived and eliminate. Worth maybe 1* in my book.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Rather contrived and eliminate. Worth maybe 1* in my book.
Iggy_B 2 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: 4c felt about right. A good route, my first after 8 weeks since breaking my back. Worth the wait!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 4c felt about right. A good route, my first after 8 weeks since breaking my back. Worth the wait!
Si dH 16 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Definitely best to traverse in the first break, not higher up. I say the grade is fair enough, possibly 4c. Very nice!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Definitely best to traverse in the first break, not higher up. I say the grade is fair enough, possibly 4c. Very nice!
slacky 19 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Simply perfect, good gear, yet nice exposure :D
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Simply perfect, good gear, yet nice exposure :D
Monk 15 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: i didn't find this easy for VS but it was my first VS after a layoff due to injury so I could be wrong. The middle section is superb.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: i didn't find this easy for VS but it was my first VS after a layoff due to injury so I could be wrong. The middle section is superb.
Monk 15 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: i didn't find this easy for VS but it was my first VS after a layoff due to injury so I could be wrong. The middle section is superb.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: i didn't find this easy for VS but it was my first VS after a layoff due to injury so I could be wrong. The middle section is superb.
Simon Caldwell 4 Aug, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Just read a couple of old guidebooks, 1970 and 1981, both have this route traversing left at 8 feet, ie below the flake of Apple Crack. Tried this yesterday, much harder, at least 4c, but with gear above the head.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Just read a couple of old guidebooks, 1970 and 1981, both have this route traversing left at 8 feet, ie below the flake of Apple Crack. Tried this yesterday, much harder, at least 4c, but with gear above the head.
Nick Smith - Climbers 15 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: It's much easier to walk along the top of the crag at Gardom's - too much like hard work to scramble along the bottom between the buttresses!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It's much easier to walk along the top of the crag at Gardom's - too much like hard work to scramble along the bottom between the buttresses!

Logged Ascents

1619 users have logged this
83 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 264
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 247
Votes cast 248
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
DWS
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Extinguisher Chimney

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Kinder Downfall)