UKH

Rockfax Description
II, 330m. A true Envers classic with superb climbing throughout. The route starts pretty much at the lowest point on the face, just to the left of a series of small horizontal overlaps. There are more bolted belays than described here so the pitches can be broken up differently.
1) 6a. Follow a thin slab and then a thin flake to a small notch.
2) 5c. Go straight up for a couple of metres then traverse right, under a small roof, and follow a corner up to easy ground which leads left to a belay.
3) 5c. Go up the amazing layback crack which leads left to a belay in a notch.
4) 5b. Head rightwards up the slab.
5) 6a. Climb the corner to the right and make a technical traverse left to reach a vertical crack. This leads to a hanging belay.
6) 6a+. Step left off the belay and climb the technical finger-crack to reach a slab. Follow this left to a corner which leads to a stance under a roof.
7) 5c. Follow the superb slab on the right then a short corner.
8) 5b. Go left up the flake-crack then a series of easy corners.
9) 4b. Scramble up easily to a notch.
10) 6a+. Move left and climb the stunning slab (protected by three bolts) to reach a corner on the right. Climb this to reach the Tour Rouge summit ridge.
11) 4c. Climb easily up the ridge to just below the summit. The route officially ends here but tagging the summit is easy enough.
Descent - Abseil back down the route. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif, ROCKFAX Chamonix: Top 50, Big Routes, Escalades Choisies Mont-Blanc Aiguilles Rouges (60 Routes 4 to 6a+), Alpine Dreamz

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User Date Notes
Rossco-p 27 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant route throughout
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βeta: Brilliant route throughout

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Voting
High ED1
Mid ED1
Low ED1
High TD+
Mid TD+
Low TD+
High TD
Mid TD
Low TD
Votes cast 13
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 16
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest

R├ębuffat-Baquet

Grade: TD+ 6a ***
(Aiguille du Midi)
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