Restricted Access

The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

-  Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.

-  Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.

Rockfax Description
The left-hand parallel crack in the right side of the face is a popular outing and follows a strong natural line.
1) 4b, 20m. Climb a bulge into the groove that falls from the crack-line and follow it to a stance on the right.
2) 4c, 20m. Step back left and follow the sustained crack, passing a small bulge a short way below the top. Tree belay. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The straight crack line punches its way through the lower ivy and bushes until you emerge at the base of the upper crack line. This will swallow up all your gear and gobble up your jams all the way to the top. An uncharacteristically straightforward top out remains. Low in the grade, perhaps?

Ticklists

An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs

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User Date Notes
ArlieH 14 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Jackdaw nests in the upper crack - don't climb for a few weeks until they have flown!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Jackdaw nests in the upper crack - don't climb for a few weeks until they have flown!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Dovedale

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 13
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 13
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Congo Corner

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Stanage Popular)

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