Restricted Access
The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
- Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.
- Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.
Rockfax Description
Climb grassy ground until you can pull left onto the wall. Climb the wall above the ramp (peg - difficult to clip) to a groove. Follow this to a leftwards-trending crack. Go up this then back right on pockets to a steep finish. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A line up the clean buttress left of Venery. Start up the corner 5m left of Venery (4c) and onto a dirty ramp, Cross the overhanging wall up and left, past a peg into a groove (6a) Wires in the jug and on the rib. Up the wall until a left diagonal fault leads up to moves out right using pockets and smears (5c) and a long move leads to steep rock before the top
Jon Haswell and John Cook 17/Jul/2017.
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Dovedale
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Saucius Digitalis
Grade: E4 6a ***
(Shining Clough)