Restricted Access
An SSSI and a Special Area Of Conservation, the vegetation in the gorge area is especially important. Among the rare species to be found in the area are Scarce Turf-moss, Tunbridge Filmy-fern, Deratocarpon miniatum and Rock Fingerwort. The rock face and exposures are also nationally important geological features. Vegetation clearance and modification of the rock faces is to be avoided without prior consent from Natural Resources Wales (NRW) and the clearance of trees and undergrowth has in the past has led to the real threat of access restrictions.
While NRW manage the North Side of the River, the South Side is privately owned and the land owner has stated that up to 6 local climbers may climb on the south side of the river. We ask climbers to respect this and to help improve relations by keeping the area tidy.
Rockfax Description
A brilliant pitch. Climb steeply to the roof and pass it to grasp a good hold over the lip. Move up the slabby wall rightwards passing an overlap with some difficulty. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
An excellent line. Start right of Crock Of Gold and climb the groove to the right of the tufa on good holds to the roof. A blind, hard reach or a lurch gains a good hold above the lip. Pull through, move up and then trend out rightwards on the slabby wall. A hard move through a small arched overlap gains access to the finishing slab.
Gary Gibson 01/May/1994.
Ticklists
Rockfax South Wales Top 50 , Rockfax South Wales Top 45
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wise | 27 May |
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βeta: I can't claim the credit but currently (27/5/23) clean and in perfect condition. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I can't claim the credit but currently (27/5/23) clean and in perfect condition. |
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| JacobRichardson1 | 15 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: Really cool route, not fit enough or head game ready for this | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Really cool route, not fit enough or head game ready for this |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Dinas Rock
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Retrobution
Grade: 7b ***
(Trial Wall Area)