Restricted Access

An SSSI and a Special Area Of Conservation, the vegetation in the gorge area is especially important. Among the rare species to be found in the area are Scarce Turf-moss, Tunbridge Filmy-fern, Deratocarpon miniatum and Rock Fingerwort. The rock face and exposures are also nationally important geological features. Vegetation clearance and modification of the rock faces is to be avoided without prior consent from Natural Resources Wales (NRW) and the clearance of trees and undergrowth has in the past has led to the real threat of access restrictions.

While NRW manage the North Side of the River, the South Side is privately owned and the land owner has stated that up to 6 local climbers may climb on the south side of the river. We ask climbers to respect this and to help improve relations by keeping the area tidy. 

21m.

Rockfax Description
Move up steeply before a traverse can be made out to the front of the hanging block. To finish, pull out rightwards and up a rounded tube/crack - interesting. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start to the right of Smeagol under a obvious arm of rock. Finger locks lead to jugs and a no hands rest. Brilliant holds now lead out across the hanging fin to an amazing position on the hanging arete, slap up unto the slab to a large flat hold, mantle this and improvise to gain a standing position. A simple undercut leads to the finishing jug and the chain! The route needs some brushing. Originally done with 1 Pt. Andy Sharp & Pete Lewis 1984

Simon Rawlinson 26/Mar/2009.

Ticklists

South Wales Sevens , The road to Statement of Youth

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Voting
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 16
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Repeated
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Red With Rage

Grade: 7b ***
(Oxwich Bay Quarry)

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