One of the finest climbs at this grade in the Pass. The final pitch has a tough and exposed 4c mantel, though it can be easily avoided if required.
1) 4a, 30m. Pull steeply onto the well-worn ledge and follow the groove leftwards to ledges. Stride left and climb diagonally leftwards up a thin corner to a short crack. Climb this to belay below an overhang. A sparsely-protected pitch.
2) 4a, 10m. Traverse right under the overhang to a chimney and climb this to a ledge.
3) 4b, 15m. Climb the thin crack in the slab on the left. Pass a ledge, step up onto another ledge and walk right to belay beside a large pinnacle.
4) 4a, 18m. Climb the pinnacle, move right onto a ledge. Climb the crack in the left wall of the corner above to another ledge.
5) 4c, 15m. Head up and right to a ledge which ends at a well-protected, but extremely exposed and slippery mantel onto a rounded ledge. Move left and climb the wonderful arete to the rock summit. © Rockfax
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