11m. Feedback
Rockfax Description
Classic grit HVS. A jamming crack leads to a bridged rest, take a big breath and layback to glory. The big chockstone can be lassoed from below by cowboys. © Rockfax
FA. Don Whillans 1955.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Eastern Grit Jamming, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Ultimate HVS ticklist, Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Si dH | 21 Jan, 2006 |
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βeta: The bridged rest is awkward and still tiring. The next mov to reach the hold below hte upper crack i found quite tough and the move to get established in the upper crack from there a bit awkward. The layback itself was something of a path, but still solid HVS - a bit of a pumpfest all-round. | βeta? |
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Show beta
βeta: The bridged rest is awkward and still tiring. The next mov to reach the hold below hte upper crack i found quite tough and the move to get established in the upper crack from there a bit awkward. The layback itself was something of a path, but still solid HVS - a bit of a pumpfest all-round. |
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| JWB | 28 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: This was my first HVS (been climbing 9 months), I placed 2 bits of gear and to be honest found it easy. I think strength and stamina are the keys with a bold confident approach. John | βeta? |
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Show beta
βeta: This was my first HVS (been climbing 9 months), I placed 2 bits of gear and to be honest found it easy. I think strength and stamina are the keys with a bold confident approach. John |
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| Dave Walker | 1 Sep, 2004 |
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βeta: Hmmm, dunno `bout this one, seems easy enough, but I suspect its easier with only one piece of pro, so long as you don`t want it back! Solo the top with EXTREME layback or fight the chocked crack if you` re daft enough! | βeta? |
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Show beta
βeta: Hmmm, dunno `bout this one, seems easy enough, but I suspect its easier with only one piece of pro, so long as you don`t want it back! Solo the top with EXTREME layback or fight the chocked crack if you` re daft enough! |
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| Duz Walker | 20 Aug, 2004 |
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βeta: A useless menagerie of old gear in the depths of the upper crack. Make this seem easy the Walker way - do peapod first. Not reassured? Good. Tricky exit not so for the tall reaching over the teapot chock to a sinker or for the short finding a three finger pocket left of the coffee pot chock. | βeta? |
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Show beta
βeta: A useless menagerie of old gear in the depths of the upper crack. Make this seem easy the Walker way - do peapod first. Not reassured? Good. Tricky exit not so for the tall reaching over the teapot chock to a sinker or for the short finding a three finger pocket left of the coffee pot chock. |
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| Ropeboy | 4 May, 2004 |
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βeta: A good warm-up for the cracks. The layback feels bold but is okay once you get going. A tricky exit. | βeta? |
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Show beta
βeta: A good warm-up for the cracks. The layback feels bold but is okay once you get going. A tricky exit. |
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| Neil Morbey | 18 Sep, 2003 |
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βeta: Nice start and an intimidating finish. Just get started laybacking- it soon eases. | βeta? |
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Show beta
βeta: Nice start and an intimidating finish. Just get started laybacking- it soon eases. |
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| Nick Smith - Climbers | 2 Jul, 2003 |
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βeta: If you fancy your chances as a cowboy/girl, then make sure you take a long enough sling! 4ft was just too short to get around the block. | βeta? |
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Show beta
βeta: If you fancy your chances as a cowboy/girl, then make sure you take a long enough sling! 4ft was just too short to get around the block. |
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| Mark S Davies | 18 May, 2003 |
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βeta: nice gentle warm up | βeta? |
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Show beta
βeta: nice gentle warm up |
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Route of Interest
Gangue Grooves
Grade: HVS 5b ***(Willersley Castle Rocks)