Ring Ouzels are reported to be nesting on Flying Buttress. Please avoid this and adjacent routes.
from 14/06/2023 to 01/07/2023
Adders are frequently seen around Curbar. They are often very well camoflaged so it's worth keeping an eye out when moving into new areas, picking up kit etc as a bite, although not life threatening to most healthy adults can still be nasty.
Ticks are abundant due to a large population of red deer. take care, particularly if passing through bracken below the crag.
Rockfax Description
The leaning groove is awkward, at the bulge (high wire and/or big cam in the notch) leap onto the left arete and crank like a man possessed to finish with a flourish. Alternatively, ignore the photogenic jug dangle, and pull straight up into the groove. © Rockfax
FA. Joe Brown (some tension) 1957.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List , Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day , Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties , Ultimate E1 ticklist , Joe Brown's Three-Star Grit-List , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Memorable Climbs , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , Joe Brown Curbar Routes , An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District , Jem's Time in the Peaks , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Pete's Peak Treats , Big trad grit list , Curbar Your Enthusiasm , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Hardest E1s on grit , Eastern Grit E1s , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 E1
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Jhanshaw | 7 Aug |
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βeta: Class! Great positions out of the roof | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Class! Great positions out of the roof |
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Si dH | 29 May, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: I found this desperate, very awkward and off-balance reaching up the nose and I couldnt see where I was going from there (dyno??). Ended up lowering off. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I found this desperate, very awkward and off-balance reaching up the nose and I couldnt see where I was going from there (dyno??). Ended up lowering off. |
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Pythonist | 14 Sep, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Led early Septmeber, and it's a tough one, but correctly graded. I didn't bother with any large cams. Decent rack of nuts, get to the upper crack line, good nut and a half-size cam. Then retreat slightly, rest, and do that quite powerful reach (I kept to the side wall, rather than move around left). | ||
Show beta
βeta: Led early Septmeber, and it's a tough one, but correctly graded. I didn't bother with any large cams. Decent rack of nuts, get to the upper crack line, good nut and a half-size cam. Then retreat slightly, rest, and do that quite powerful reach (I kept to the side wall, rather than move around left). |
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The old James turnbull | 4 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: all the holds are good just hard work and a big pull. size 3 is rubbish, 3.5 for sure. | ||
Show beta
βeta: all the holds are good just hard work and a big pull. size 3 is rubbish, 3.5 for sure. |
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Ropeboy | 4 May, 2004 |
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βeta: Definately friend 3.5, fits perfectly. A stiff pull up and lock-off gains the finishing holds. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Definately friend 3.5, fits perfectly. A stiff pull up and lock-off gains the finishing holds. |
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Swirly | 29 Apr, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Haven't led it myself but my partner lobbed of onto a size 3 technical frend and it held fine. He weighs a lot more than 9 stone too. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Haven't led it myself but my partner lobbed of onto a size 3 technical frend and it held fine. He weighs a lot more than 9 stone too. |
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Short&Savage | 7 Mar, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: In response to D Berry: Yep, did think the No. 3 placement was a bit dodge at the time, being a tad bit undercammed. But since I don't own a 3.5, thought I'll carry on anyway. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: In response to D Berry: Yep, did think the No. 3 placement was a bit dodge at the time, being a tad bit undercammed. But since I don't own a 3.5, thought I'll carry on anyway. |
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Short&Savage | 3 Mar, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: I agree with the comment about the size 3 cam. I fell off the crux with a size 3 cam in, I'm only 9 stones and the cam just popped out. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I agree with the comment about the size 3 cam. I fell off the crux with a size 3 cam in, I'm only 9 stones and the cam just popped out. |
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Grade: E1 5c ***
(Gardom's Edge)