Rockfax Description
Classic grit E1. The leaning groove is awkward and insecure. At the bulge (high wire and/or big cam in the notch) leap onto the left arete and crank like a man possessed to finish or flounder with a flourish. Alternatively, ignore the photogenic jug dangle, and pull straight up into the groove. © Rockfax
FA. Joe Brown (some tension) 1957.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Joe Brown's Three-Star Grit-List, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes, Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Memorable Climbs, Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions, Joe Brown Curbar Routes, An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District, Jem's Time in the Peaks, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List, Pete's Peak Treats, Big trad grit list, Curbar Your Enthusiasm
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Si dH | 29 May, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: I found this desperate, very awkward and off-balance reaching up the nose and I couldnt see where I was going from there (dyno??). Ended up lowering off. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: I found this desperate, very awkward and off-balance reaching up the nose and I couldnt see where I was going from there (dyno??). Ended up lowering off. |
||||
| Pythonist | 14 Sep, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Led early Septmeber, and it's a tough one, but correctly graded. I didn't bother with any large cams. Decent rack of nuts, get to the upper crack line, good nut and a half-size cam. Then retreat slightly, rest, and do that quite powerful reach (I kept to the side wall, rather than move around left). | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Led early Septmeber, and it's a tough one, but correctly graded. I didn't bother with any large cams. Decent rack of nuts, get to the upper crack line, good nut and a half-size cam. Then retreat slightly, rest, and do that quite powerful reach (I kept to the side wall, rather than move around left). |
||||
| The old James turnbull | 4 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: all the holds are good just hard work and a big pull. size 3 is rubbish, 3.5 for sure. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: all the holds are good just hard work and a big pull. size 3 is rubbish, 3.5 for sure. |
||||
| Ropeboy | 4 May, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Definately friend 3.5, fits perfectly. A stiff pull up and lock-off gains the finishing holds. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Definately friend 3.5, fits perfectly. A stiff pull up and lock-off gains the finishing holds. |
||||
| Swirly | 29 Apr, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Haven't led it myself but my partner lobbed of onto a size 3 technical frend and it held fine. He weighs a lot more than 9 stone too. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Haven't led it myself but my partner lobbed of onto a size 3 technical frend and it held fine. He weighs a lot more than 9 stone too. |
||||
| Short&Savage | 7 Mar, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: In response to D Berry: Yep, did think the No. 3 placement was a bit dodge at the time, being a tad bit undercammed. But since I don't own a 3.5, thought I'll carry on anyway. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: In response to D Berry: Yep, did think the No. 3 placement was a bit dodge at the time, being a tad bit undercammed. But since I don't own a 3.5, thought I'll carry on anyway. |
||||
| Short&Savage | 3 Mar, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: I agree with the comment about the size 3 cam. I fell off the crux with a size 3 cam in, I'm only 9 stones and the cam just popped out. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: I agree with the comment about the size 3 cam. I fell off the crux with a size 3 cam in, I'm only 9 stones and the cam just popped out. |
||||
Logged Ascents
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Tower Chimney
Grade: E1 5b ***(Stanage Plantation)