UKH

Rockfax Description
A long mountain adventure. Never desperate, with stunning views and varied climbing. The route involves some easy scrambling in the mid-section and isn't sustained, but the short tricky sections are interesting and the entire route is over 300m in length. The climb would be suitable for a grade 3 scrambler to attempt with rock boots and a rope. The route is not described in individual pitches. Start at the base of the left hand rib which makes up Craig yr Ysfa Gully.
1) 130m. Pleasant, pocketed slab climbing leads to a ledge at 30m. More slabs lead to a tricky groove, above which more easy slab climbing leads onto a large ledge beneath a steep wall.
2) 22m. On the right is the crux groove. A polished corner leads to a large detached block. Continue past this to gain easier ground.
3) 75m. Scramble along paths and vegetated ground to reach the crested ridge.
4) 35m. Traverse the apex of the alpine-esque ridge passing two prominent gendarmes.
5) 60m. Follow the ridge on the right to gain the summit. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Connoisseur's Classic Rock , A grand easy welsh day out , North Wales Rock Graded List , UK's best Diffs and V.diffs , Puttrell's Progress , ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , Snowdonia - long routes and classic climbs , AMC Uni Ticklist , North wales road to ruins HVS , Preparation climbs for a Cuillin ridge traverse , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The Big Easys , High Quality Adventure routes , The Ridges of England, Wales and Ireland , Big Routes , The Long Routes , Solos , The Big Easy Mountain Route Club , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Mountain Rock , Easy peasy Northy Weesy , The (easy) Welsh Top50 Round , Hard Rock & Other Classics , 2021 , Snowdonia Mountain Walks and Scrambles - Mark Reeves , Dream Challenge (The BIG ONE) , Wales Multipitch , Sarah’s N Wales Wishlist , No you're a punter

Feedback

User Date Notes
LJJ77 25 Jul Show βeta
βeta: I think we went off to the left onto a thin lip for your feet and a wall, cam protection at your feet but as you make a few thin moves up the chances of decking out grow Felt significantly harder than the crux especially with it being thin on gear (just the cam) It brings you out just below the cracks leading up to the crux ledge
βeta?
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βeta: I think we went off to the left onto a thin lip for your feet and a wall, cam protection at your feet but as you make a few thin moves up the chances of decking out grow Felt significantly harder than the crux especially with it being thin on gear (just the cam) It brings you out just below the cracks leading up to the crux ledge
Rob Evans 19 May Show βeta
βeta: Got rained off on the 15/5/22, had to leave a couple of slings to abb off. If any one could return them there would be a reward. evs91@hotmail.com. Thanks.
βeta?
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βeta: Got rained off on the 15/5/22, had to leave a couple of slings to abb off. If any one could return them there would be a reward. evs91@hotmail.com. Thanks.
useful 26 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: P1. 25m to the party Ledge. P2. 8m to below the squeeze. P3. To top of the Slabs. P4. Corkscrew and back wall. P5. Long walk! Include the first rock step. P6. Alpine Ridge P7. Walk to the next. P8 some steep steps to the walkway, rubbish gear at the belay. P9. Home and dry!
Show beta
βeta: P1. 25m to the party Ledge. P2. 8m to below the squeeze. P3. To top of the Slabs. P4. Corkscrew and back wall. P5. Long walk! Include the first rock step. P6. Alpine Ridge P7. Walk to the next. P8 some steep steps to the walkway, rubbish gear at the belay. P9. Home and dry!
Rhys lewis 27 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The route out after crossing the gendarmes. Isn’t pleasant.
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βeta: The route out after crossing the gendarmes. Isn’t pleasant.
Wil Treasure 10 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: It's a grassy ramble with a couple of pitches, it feels "Alpine" in the sense that it's generally short tricky steps. A fun day out, best treated as a tricky scramble I think. A couple of short steps where rock shoes make life a little easier.
Show beta
βeta: It's a grassy ramble with a couple of pitches, it feels "Alpine" in the sense that it's generally short tricky steps. A fun day out, best treated as a tricky scramble I think. A couple of short steps where rock shoes make life a little easier.
FallingBrick 22 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Large boulder about to come loose half way up last ridge section (22-7-20).
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βeta: Large boulder about to come loose half way up last ridge section (22-7-20).
mattdarli92 16 Mar, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Pitched 2 sections, short roped others and soloed some! Mint route
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pitched 2 sections, short roped others and soloed some! Mint route
bengy89 22 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Lovely mountain day. Lost car keys somewhere on the route though...please drop me a message if you find them!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lovely mountain day. Lost car keys somewhere on the route though...please drop me a message if you find them!!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Craig Yr Ysfa

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Voting
High HVD
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High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
High HD
Mid HD
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Votes cast 202
Votes cast 199
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Direct Route

Grade: VD ***
(Tryfan)

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