A great traditional crag with some extremely popular routes such as Creagh Dhu Wall, Tensor and Pellagra.
From March to July there has been Owls and Jackdaws spotted nesting on some of the routes, please check your routes before setting of.
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny owls nest on the first pitch of Creagh Dhu Wall (shared with One step in the Crowds). It's also worth noting that Tawny owls can be exceptionally aggressive in defending their nests and there are known cases of serious eye injuries caused to people who venture too close to Tawny owl nests!
April 2024 - Jackdaws nesting on the first pitch of Mensor, please avoid this area until they have left.
Rockfax Description
If you are an ambitious VS climber then this is arguably better than the original. With 60m ropes, it can be done in one long and tremendous pitch.
1) 5a, 40m. Climb the groove to the overhangs and continue until it gets difficult. The original goes right, instead climb straight up a steep groove to an overhanging groove. Left is an undercut hand-jamming flake leading out left. Undercut this to a side-pull and make an exciting move left to a jug that leads to better holds and easier ground. Move up and right to rejoin Creagh Dhu Wall. A little higher, belay at a hollow block. If you have managed the ropes well you can link into the next pitch.
2) 4c, 20m. From the hollow block, go boldly up the easy-angled groove above. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
This climb goes to the left of craig dhu wall up a large sloping left crackline. 2 overhangs on the left. Above the first overhang move out left smearing and holding on to the undercuts as you traverse left to a slanting crack and safety. Crux can be easily protected. The second pitch is interesting and moves over 2 overlaps to the top. A tree on the left can be used to abseil down with sling & link in situ.
Simon & Ray 29/Sep/2007.
North Wales Rock Graded List , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , Definitive *** Tremadog , North Wales Jam and Wide Cracks , Consolidation VS-HVS , Routes for MCI , 3 Star - North Wales HS - HVS
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Jennifnfe | 21 Apr |
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βeta: Nesting Jackdaws at the top of P1 - don't disturb! Apr 2024 | βeta? | |
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βeta: Nesting Jackdaws at the top of P1 - don't disturb! Apr 2024 |
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Rustynutz | 7 Aug, 2023 |
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βeta: Amazing climbing. Picked the route because our friend features in the new Roxfax pic! Went direct which was committing for the grade but great holds. Could defo do in a oner next time. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Amazing climbing. Picked the route because our friend features in the new Roxfax pic! Went direct which was committing for the grade but great holds. Could defo do in a oner next time. |
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pete johnson | 19 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: More like 50m than 44m as in CC guide. | ||
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βeta: More like 50m than 44m as in CC guide. |
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Grade: VS 4b ***
(Glyder Fawr)