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65m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The route of the crag, great climbing up a big bulky buttress on lovely rock. .
1) 4b, 32m. Climb the groove that leads to the overhangs and continue up until it gets too difficult. Then make a move round the rib on the right to a delicate foot-traverse right to a groove and soon, a large ledge and big fat tree belay. The direct line without the detour is Creagh Dhu Wall Direct, VS.
2) 4b, 30m. Drop down and hand-traverse the huge flake out left then climb the face to a small ledge (possible stance on One Step.). Step up and make hard moves into the polished slanting groove. Finish either side of the roof above this. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A wonderful route. Head up and right to large ledge (belay). Then fabulously exposed 2nd pitch goes out left along the huge flake. Head up obvious line above, good holds. Tricky crux, entering the groove near top. 3 stars.

Ticklists

Classic Rock, Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, North Wales Rock Graded List, 50 Best HS Routes in the UK., ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe, North wales road to ruins HVS, Ultimate HS ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Tom Ripley's best UK HS climbs, #RadTradGirl UK HS/VS climbs Easter 2017, AMC Uni Ticklist, The Great Gumclub Ticklist, Libby Peter's HS Hit List, The Original 'Classic Rock' List, UK Holiday Plans, Pre-MIA Wishlist, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, Definitive *** Tremadog, Dougs 2020 ToDo List, 2020 Trips

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User Date Notes
Francis Hardy 27 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Ab tat at the top is starting to look quite ropy, might need replacing sometime soon.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Ab tat at the top is starting to look quite ropy, might need replacing sometime soon.
SimonWooden 7 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: At least two chics in nest. We hadn't seen this post but backed off (One Step in the Crowds - same line here).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: At least two chics in nest. We hadn't seen this post but backed off (One Step in the Crowds - same line here).
Danliu 25 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Bird's nest on first pitch
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Bird's nest on first pitch
Louise Bullock 22 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Pair of tawny owls nesting on pitch 1. (One flew out right by my head and scared the living daylights out of me). Perhaps best to avoid this route until later in year when eggs have hatched so as not to scare owls away.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pair of tawny owls nesting on pitch 1. (One flew out right by my head and scared the living daylights out of me). Perhaps best to avoid this route until later in year when eggs have hatched so as not to scare owls away.

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 192
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 179
Votes cast 178
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Main Wall

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Cyrn Las (Gyrn Las))