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A great traditional crag with some extremely popular routes such as Creagh Dhu Wall, Tensor and Pellagra.
From March to July there has been Owls and Jackdaws spotted nesting on some of the routes, please check your routes before setting of.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny owls nest on the first pitch of Creagh Dhu Wall (shared with One step in the Crowds). Climbers are requested to move swiftly past this nest and not to hang around here to avoid distrubance from March 1st to the end of May. It's also worth noting that Tawny owls can be exceptionally aggressive in defending their nests and theer are known cases of serious eye injuries caused to people who venture too close to Tawny owl nests!
May 2023- Jackdaws nesting on the first pitch of Mensor, please avoid this area until they have left.
Rockfax Description
The route of the crag, with great climbing up a big bulky buttress on lovely rock.
1) 4b, 32m. Climb the groove that leads to the overhangs and continue up until it gets too difficult. Then make a move round the rib on the right to a delicate foot-traverse right. This leads to a groove and soon, a large ledge and big fat tree belay.
2) 4b, 30m. Drop down and hand-traverse the huge flake out left, then climb the face to a small ledge (possible stance on One Step...). Step up and make hard moves into the polished slanting groove. Head up a crack to a small ledge and possible belay at a hollow block. Move left from here to gain the base of a shallow groove and climb this to a small triangular roof and finish up either side of it. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A wonderful route. Head up and right to large ledge (belay). Then fabulously exposed 2nd pitch goes out left along the huge flake. Head up obvious line above, good holds. Tricky crux, entering the groove near top. 3 stars.
Ticklists
Classic Rock , Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , North Wales Rock Graded List , 50 Best HS Routes in the UK. , ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe , North wales road to ruins HVS , Ultimate HS ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Tom Ripley's best UK HS climbs , #RadTradGirl UK HS/VS climbs Easter 2017 , AMC Uni Ticklist , The Great Gumclub Ticklist , Libby Peter's HS Hit List , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , UK Holiday Plans , Pre-MIA Wishlist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Definitive *** Tremadog , Dougs 2020 ToDo List , 2020/21 Trips , Snowdonia and The Lakes Classic Rock Summer Challenge , 22 For 2022 , The John Cunningham Legacy , Welsh Classic Rock Challenge , Dan’s Delights , Llidberis , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , 3 Star - North Wales HS - HVS
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| skinne | 13 Sep, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Less than one, single 60m abseil from the top. Mind the rope-eating notch on the way down though (easily avoided by trending right on the way down (facing in)). | βeta? | |
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βeta: Less than one, single 60m abseil from the top. Mind the rope-eating notch on the way down though (easily avoided by trending right on the way down (facing in)). |
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| Shonaghkinnear | 8 Jul, 2023 |
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βeta: No nesting birds | βeta? | |
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βeta: No nesting birds |
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| c357 | 11 May, 2023 |
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βeta: Nesting birds on pitch 1, suggest avoid for a while. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Nesting birds on pitch 1, suggest avoid for a while. |
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| AC1 | 2 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: Straightforward single ab to base from last belay in one 60m ropelength | βeta? | |
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βeta: Straightforward single ab to base from last belay in one 60m ropelength |
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| JGriffiths47 | 6 Sep, 2021 |
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βeta: Moved the ab tat on the intermediate abseil station to the rearmost tree and off the dead rotting one. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Moved the ab tat on the intermediate abseil station to the rearmost tree and off the dead rotting one. |
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| pancakeandchips | 22 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: You can get down in two abs with a single 60m rope. The tree used the mid ab point isn't looking too healthy though, could be backed up to the one behind it with a bit more static rope? | βeta? | |
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βeta: You can get down in two abs with a single 60m rope. The tree used the mid ab point isn't looking too healthy though, could be backed up to the one behind it with a bit more static rope? |
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| Michael Hellyer | 11 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: Careful rope work required to avoid rope drag on traverse pitches, especially the start of P2. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Careful rope work required to avoid rope drag on traverse pitches, especially the start of P2. |
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| Daveyc86 | 23 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Though it requires a short (20m) bush wack at the top - the walk off is really pleasent after that and probably takes the same, if not less time than a double abseil. Not sure why people bemoaned the walk off - seems easier than ab and scree field walk to me. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Though it requires a short (20m) bush wack at the top - the walk off is really pleasent after that and probably takes the same, if not less time than a double abseil. Not sure why people bemoaned the walk off - seems easier than ab and scree field walk to me. |
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| Francis Hardy | 27 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: Ab tat at the top is starting to look quite ropy, might need replacing sometime soon. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Ab tat at the top is starting to look quite ropy, might need replacing sometime soon. |
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| SimonWooden | 7 May, 2019 |
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βeta: At least two chics in nest. We hadn't seen this post but backed off (One Step in the Crowds - same line here). | βeta? | |
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βeta: At least two chics in nest. We hadn't seen this post but backed off (One Step in the Crowds - same line here). |
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| Danliu | 25 Apr, 2019 |
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βeta: Bird\'s nest on first pitch | βeta? | |
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βeta: Bird's nest on first pitch |
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| Louise Bullock | 22 Apr, 2019 |
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βeta: Pair of tawny owls nesting on pitch 1. (One flew out right by my head and scared the living daylights out of me). Perhaps best to avoid this route until later in year when eggs have hatched so as not to scare owls away. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Pair of tawny owls nesting on pitch 1. (One flew out right by my head and scared the living daylights out of me). Perhaps best to avoid this route until later in year when eggs have hatched so as not to scare owls away. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Craig y Castell (Tremadog)
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Flake Crack Into Inspiration
Grade: HS 4b ***
(Carreg y Foel Gron)