Restricted Access
Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.
Warning
Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive!
Rockfax Description
A great route with an open first pitch and a sensational and brutal roof-crack. Start at the base of a gully, right of a corner.
1) 5b, 30m. Climb the steep, crozzly wall 4m right of the corner. Move right at 10m to gain the arete, climb it to a ledge and a short corner on the right. Climb this and step left to a tree belay.
2) 10m. Climb the short, easy nose of rock to gain a large ledge. Walk rightwards along this and belay beneath the steep crack.
3) 5c, 6m. Climb the awkward and often-wet crack to a ledge.
4) 6a, 14m. Climb the steep crack above the belay to below the roof. Getting established in the top crack is the crux, after which a good fight on the headwall leads to a tough top-out.
4a) The Neb - E2 5c, 18m. The original finish may provide a useful escape. Climb the steep crack above the belay to below the roof. Tiptoe rightwards under the roof until a smeary move gains the corner round to the right. Follow this to finish. © Rockfax
Ticklists
North Wales Rock Graded List , Tom Randall's Classic Hand cracks , 50 cracks to Squamish , Cracks And Corners To Greatness , WideBoyz Crack School , Ultimate E4 ticklist , Crackageddon , Definitive *** Tremadog , Proper Cracks UK , Journey Through Welsh Crack Climbing
Feedback
There is no feedback for this climb.
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Civetta Variation
Grade: E4 6b ***
(Carreg Alltrem)