Organ Pipe Buttress IV/V.

A good outing at a consistent standard. Pitch lengths approximate. Start a short distance right from the foot of Waterslide Gully at the first rightwards slanting icy ramp leading to an obvious right facing chimney on the left side of the Infidel Buttress.
1 (2) 20m. Follow the Ramp and take a stance a few metres below the obvious chimney.
2 (4) 20m. Gain and follow the deep flake filled chimney to gain a large ledge. Belay on a large flake in the left side of the gully (Waterslide).
3 (5) 35m. Hopefully climb ice in Waterslide Gully for 10m then pull out left to gain the obvious stepped crest on the left to awkwardly gain easier ground. Belays at the foot of the next steep buttress.
4(4) 45m. Climb up a few metres and follow the obvious leftwards rising ramp line across the steep face. A short steep groove near its end gains the right end of a good ledge below the final barrier wall.
5 (4) 20m. Traverse leftwards along the ledge and gain the obvious groove line leading to a col on the ridge

Tim Neill, Keith Ball Jan/2021.

* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.

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