UKH

Rockfax Description
This amazing route is a must for the avid mountaineer and is one of the finest grade 3 scrambles in Snowdonia. In combination with reversing Crib Goch and the North Ridge of Crib Goch it is even better. It is sustained and exposed and will challenge your route finding skills.
1) Ascend the gully to gain some ledges on the right wall. Climb past one tricky step, past a wide crack to reach an exposed ledge below a narrow groove. Go up this on jugs to the grassy ledge and move left to below another rock step.
2) Go directly up to reach a much larger grassy ledge. Carry on straight up almost on the crest of the nose to reach another more rocky ledge below an impasse.
3) Traverse right around the ridge to reach a gully some 10m to the right. The top of this gully leads to another impasse which is passed on the right via a technically demanding groove.
4) At the top of the groove, the ridge eases off. Make your way through a jumble of boulders, spikes and craglets to reach another easing in angle below one last short step in a tight V-groove. This is climbed just to the right via a crack on the right wall.
5) From here the rest is steady and you can stick as close to the crest as you wish. After 300m you reach the junction with Crib Goch and Crib y Ddysgl, just above the knife-edge section on Crib y Ddysgl, at a large round cairn.
Descent - The easiest descent is to turn left and head to Bwlch Coch and head down the gully back into Cwm Uchaf back to the start of the route (overview p.104). However, you can also head over Crib Goch and down the North Ridge of Crib Goch (p.101) to achieve an amazing horseshoe. Finally you can turn right and head over Garnedd Ugain and on to Snowdon's summit or down the Gryn Las Ridge. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Approach by walking and scrambling up the path from the open wooden bridge crossing the river by the A4086 about a mile up from Gwastadnant.This is the downstream of two neighbouring bridges.Following the path up into Cwm Glas, past the imposing crag of Cyrn Las with the excellent Main Wall climb brings you up to the right of the arête as seen in the photo. The normal grade two route follows the right wall of the gully on the right hand side of the arête pleasantly and with some interest up to the obvious jammed boulder, which can be seen from afar.From here one can forge ahead straight up until the first barrier.A well worn rightwards traverses lead to suitable weaknesses in the defences. The crux is easy to recognise when you find it - a shallow chimney that seems to offer little for the feet. Jugs above, judicially applied pressure with the possible assistance of a toe jam on the right will overcome this without great difficulty. Above this point, the main difficulties are over, unless you take another traverse to the right and find yourself faced with an awkward mantelshelf onto a restricted platform - easier without a rucksack. Eventually, easy ground leads up to join with the main Crib y Ddysgl ridge, from where a circuit of Cwm Glass is possible to the right or a traverse of Crib Goch and descent of its North Ridge is possible. If the latter is taken, take the scree to the left before reaching the end of the ridge - easily previewed from the Clogwyn Y Person Arête during the ascent on a nice day.This is an excellent route mostly on clean rock, with interesting route finding.

Ticklists

Top ridge scrambles of Britain, Scrambles in Snowdonia - Steve Ashton, North Wales Scrambles - Garry Smith, Preparation climbs for a Cuillin ridge traverse, The Ridges of England, Wales and Ireland, 10 Year Walking And Scrambling Challenge, Snowdonia Mountain Walks and Scrambles - Mark Reeves

Feedback

User Date Notes
a_m154 11 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Mainly moved together. With Lizzie and George.
βeta?
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βeta: Mainly moved together. With Lizzie and George.
Andrew Kerrison 13 Feb, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Stay in the gulley at start and don't be tempted to stray to the right of the gulley.
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βeta: Stay in the gulley at start and don't be tempted to stray to the right of the gulley.
Georgenson03 20 Jan, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: There's a particular exposed section that's "Interesting"
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βeta: There's a particular exposed section that's "Interesting"
Mikebridge 16 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Great route in good weather sound Rick all the way. Climbed a lot of steps that were harder than the crux the route books describe ( which is obvious when reached). So not sure we were on route. Fun day anyway.
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βeta: Great route in good weather sound Rick all the way. Climbed a lot of steps that were harder than the crux the route books describe ( which is obvious when reached). So not sure we were on route. Fun day anyway.
Pero 24 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Tackled all the difficulties direct. Put my rock shoes on. Would be tough in big boots. Harder than the Nose, IMO.
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βeta: Tackled all the difficulties direct. Put my rock shoes on. Would be tough in big boots. Harder than the Nose, IMO.

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Route of Interest

Cyfrwy Arete Variation

Grade: Grade-3 ***
(Cadair Idris - Penygadair)
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