The wide roof crack at the entrance to Pixies Hole is a much-tried problem that proves to be a gritstone meets limestone experience! Start in the corner 4m right of the arete.1) 5a,16m. Climb up the crack and right wall to a ledge beneath the wide roof crack. A committing layback rapidly gains a ledge above the roof and a short traverse left to a stance.2) 20m. Traverse left to the edge of the buttress and climb up easy rock to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
This has been upgraded to an HVS and downgraded to a 4c on the Javu Website. Personally I dont agree with either change, but would be interested in others thoughts on this.
Cracking 1st pitch, but dont bother with the 2nd.
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