30m.
(49a)E1 5c
Variations on Simanon Direct, both done together provide something different for any Cheese addict. Start 25ft right of Simanon’s chain below a peg an a groove.
25m. 5cClimb awkwardly to the poor peg (small wire just above), steep left then climb rightwards to a large ledge system. Climb up heading for Simanon’s Vee groove and continue as for this route.
12m. 5b Swinbourne Finish. Once the second belay of Simanon has been reached follow the initial crack of Simian (the E3). Move out of the alcove step right onto the slab of Hot Lava; follow this past bolts and pegs to the top.
Variations on Simanon Direct, both done together provide something different for any Cheese addict. Start 25ft right of Simanon’s chain below a peg an a groove.
25m. 5cClimb awkwardly to the poor peg (small wire just above), steep left then climb rightwards to a large ledge system. Climb up heading for Simanon’s Vee groove and continue as for this route.
12m. 5b Swinbourne Finish. Once the second belay of Simanon has been reached follow the initial crack of Simian (the E3). Move out of the alcove step right onto the slab of Hot Lava; follow this past bolts and pegs to the top.
Robert Swinbourne & Mosseee Sep/2007.
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Route of Interest
Till Dreaming's Done
Grade: E1 5c ***
(Maer Cliff (aka Northcott Mouth))