UKC

Climbs 189
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces S

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Making use of some very tiny holds. © Mark Glaister

Crag features

Quarried granite: very slippery when wet. Many excellent routes at all grades, on generally sound rock, with single- and multi-pitch routes up to 120ft.

Recommended: Simanon Direct (HVS 5a), Eyefull Tower (E2 6a, or 5a with 1pt aid). Friend or Foe (7a+) Psycokiller (7c ish)

There has been alot of re bolting work done here with the adition of some new sport routes. Cornish sport climbing is a little bit of an aquired taste but you know what? its well worth it. More and more bouldering is apering/ being recoreded around the cheese area both in the quarry and ont moors around the local area.

 

Approach notes

Located on the S slopes of Stowe Hill, 0.5miles from the village of Minions. A rough track leads from the village to the main quarry area passing a large hole in the ground (an old collapsed mine) - 15 mins walk.

If approaching from Minions, once you have passed the collapsed mine, bear to the right of the quarry for access as there is a fence surrounding the quarry. Once in the quarry, sport climbing routes are located directly to your right 100m from the entry point.

 

Update this Crag
Last updated on 15/Apr/2024

Access Advice

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 January to 14 January

Reason: Heritage

Peregrine falcon have been reported to be nesting on the E side of the main face - if you observe the birds, please avoid routes in this area until 30th June.

Click here for RAD Access Notes
Last update: 02/10/2012  

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Gave Trouble With Lichen a good clean today 30.06.2014
Tom Last - 30/Jun/14
An excellent and varied venue. I've spent around 4 weeks there and there's still tons to do. Alot of the classics in the quarry are well rounded due to the Commandos training there in the 1940's with hob nails, be wary of some of the classic route gradings. This place is pretty popular with groups but they are mostly confined to the southern area and the lower part of the main wall. There is an excellent little cafe, plenty of parking and he sells the guide book too. (cheesewring and south east cornwall). Heger Tor is near and provides some excellent gritty bouldering. A top day out.
stuart wilkes - 29/Jul/03
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