Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:
Blackwell Halt
This compact wall has a good set of mid-grade routes. The setting is pleasant and there is plenty of picnic potential at the base. The wall faces south although the lower section is in the shade of the trees. There is little seepage and it is well sheltered from the wind.
Approach - From the Monsal Trail on the Chee Dale Upper Approach, head down towards the cafe/cycle hire. Cross the bridge and turn sharply left at the cottages to follow a small path along the edge of the river past a pump house. This leads to a tunnel under the train tracks. On leaving the tunnel, cross the fence on the left and go up some hidden stone steps. From here a path leads up into the grassy field below the quarry.
Access - The new landowner of Blackwell Halt is working towards being able to give permission for climbers to access the site but is not currently able to do so. If you do decide to visit, be aware you may be asked to leave - please be polite and courteous at all times.
Rockfax Description
A great climb on perfect rock which is one of the best sport routes in the dale. The move off a pocket above the bulge proves to be a stopper for some, especially those who are a little on the short side. Harder than it used to be due to loss of holds. © Rockfax
FA. Ron Fawcett 1981.
Classy Peak Lime 7a to 7b+ , Peak Sport 3 Star Routes 6c+-7c+ , Peak District Limestone top 50 sport up to 8a+ , Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , Classic UK F7s , World Graded List , Peak limestone north graded list - sport , Definitive *** Peak Lime , The Festival Of Shite , The "I live in West Yorkshire and have a rockfax digital subscription" 7's sport bible
User | Date | Notes | ||
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KGshoots | 1 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: Height dependent crux, desperate move of two small sidepulls. | ||
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βeta: Height dependent crux, desperate move of two small sidepulls. |
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goi.ashmore | 5 Aug, 2007 |
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βeta: Definately Fr7b for anyone at 5 10 or less | ||
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βeta: Definately Fr7b for anyone at 5 10 or less |
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Andy Farnell | 18 Jul, 2006 |
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βeta: It's hard 7a+ even if your under 6ft, just get your feet higher to make the reach. The big rest before the last trickyish moves mean it's not sustained enough to warrant 7b. | ||
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βeta: It's hard 7a+ even if your under 6ft, just get your feet higher to make the reach. The big rest before the last trickyish moves mean it's not sustained enough to warrant 7b. |
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Sam Ring | 15 Jun, 2006 |
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βeta: With the big rest after the bulge it just isn't sustained enough to be 7b. | ||
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βeta: With the big rest after the bulge it just isn't sustained enough to be 7b. |
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Tyler | 4 Sep, 2003 |
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βeta: Seems like 7b to me. Run out at the top | βeta? | |
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βeta: Seems like 7b to me. Run out at the top |
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carl dawson | 11 Sep, 2002 |
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βeta: And how tall is Lee!!! | βeta? | |
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βeta: And how tall is Lee!!! |
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Ian Patterson | 23 Jul, 2002 |
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βeta: Re-equipped by someone with 4 bolts matching the original placments. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Re-equipped by someone with 4 bolts matching the original placments. |
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Grade: 7b ***
(Winnats Pass)