Rockfax Description
An outstanding route marking a step forward in hard limestone climbing. It had a controversial history intitally around the validity of the first ascent and later as it gained and lost bolts. It has now settled down at a four-bolt sport route providing that you pre-clip the first bolt with a stick clip - award yourself a top end E6 without this. The start is harder than it used to be because holds have gone. © Rockfax

FA. R.Fawcett 5.82. It was originally climbed with old-style yo-yo techniques. A visiting Frenchman Jean-Pierre Bouvier red-pointed the route and renamed it Gandalf Le Magicien claiming he had made the first real ascent. Since then the route has twice gai May/1982.


Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50, World Graded List, Peak Rock/15/The Dawn of Sport:A Bolt From the Blue, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Definitive *** Peak Lime, James' Summer Ticklist


User Date Notes
remus 22 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: 3.6m clipstick + a tall-ish friend was long enough to clip the first bolt.
Show beta
βeta: 3.6m clipstick + a tall-ish friend was long enough to clip the first bolt.

Logged Ascents

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High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Jug Jockey

Grade: 7c+ ***
(Chee Dale Lower)
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