Restricted Access

The crag is south facing for the most part and quick drying, especially with a bit of sea breeze. However, it's worth bearing in mind that traversing along the platform at the base of the crag (needed to get to most routes) can be exciting in anything other than calm seas. The traverse is generally accessible 3 hours either side of high tide for most of the crag and the base of Terrier's Tooth and Bishop's Buttress for slightly longer, although these times are significantly reduced during neap tides. During high tides or when big seas are running, it is also possible to abseil in to the upper pitches of several routes.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies to all routes on Bishop's Buttress - from Lacertion to The Mitre inclusive (route 82, page 153 to route 14, page 159 in the 2017 Climber's Club guidebook).

Routes within Zawn Rinny (Consolation Climb to Shark Alley) are also restricted during the same period, but the Zawn Rinny descent for the western end of Chair Ladder is fine to use. 

56m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A long line that has a very traditional feel. It is a little dirty in places. Start at the toe of the ramp at the end of a seawater filled trench.
1) 20m. Climb the intimidating right-trending ramp and crack to a good ledge and spike belay at its right-hand end (care is needed to protect the second on this pitch).
2) 12m. Ascend the large flake rightwards to its top, then work up the slab above it to a stance next to a large crack/corner.
3) 14m. Move right to a crack and climb it to a break. Step right to another wider crack, climb its left wall to a ledge and belay on blocks.
4) 10m. Climb a short crack to a horizontal break, traverse left to a ledge and finish up the corner-crack above it. © Rockfax


West Country Climbs , I want a Pasty! , Learning to Trad Climb: Cornwall , Luke & Andy's Cornish Climbathon


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Alt Leads
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Route of Interest
Bosigran Ridge a.k.a Commando Ridge

Grade: VD ***
(Bosigran Ridge Area)

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