Fantastic rock and positions make this a must-do route whatever grade you climb. Start about 15m along from where the base of the crag starts to rise, below a scruffy groove with large holly tree - Erosion Groove (HVS). .
1) 15m. Climb the wide crack/groove to a ledge, then move left to a good belay.
2) 4a, 20m. Follow a well-trodden traverse-line left to the arete. Swing boldly onto the arete and follow the polished holds to a ledge. Take the short wall above to a sloping ledge to belay.
3) 4a, 20m. Climb up easily rightwards to a corner and follow it to about 2m before the roof. Make a tricky traverse left to finish up a short corner/crack onto a long terrace. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Requires good rope-work if bringing up two seconds! From just left of the large corner of Erosion Groove climb a short gulley to the steep section above. Traverse left on good footholds, rocking out onto the far left arete, with good exposure. Climb straight upwards to a large belay ledge. Climb right from the belay to a short crack. Climb this, moving back left to another crackline that leads, with the possibility of some jamming, to a short scramble top-out. Enjoy the views!
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