80m, 4 pitches. This is a classic climb. Once at the bottom of the climb there is an old piton about 3metres up in the rock to the left, either use this or solo up to the first real belay point 10m above. easy placements here and a good view of practically the whole climb. The crack/chimney above this is narrow but deep often going back 4m or more. There are good ledges and foot placements for most of the climb and an abundance of welded gear remains in the wall. Guides mostly split the rest of the climb into 3 pitches but the next 2 pitches are easily combined as one. All the belay points are perfect with wide ledges or chock stones in the crack. The last belay has two ledges 3 metres apart, since the crack veers of here this is a possible abseil point back to the bottom of the y gully

R.B.FRERE, K.A.ROBERTSON 1939.

Ticklists

Classic Rock , Ultimate Scottish Rock , Scottish Classic Rock , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , 2013 Scottish Multi Pitch Mission , The Baron's Bucket List , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , RGU challange list , Scottish Rock Benchmarks , Mountain Rock , Garry Latter, Scottish Ticklist up to VS , Cairngorm Classic Rock Challenge , RGU Shelterstone , Carrotte's summer sends (multi pitch edition) , The boys climb da rocks. , Lairig hitlist , Scotland wishlist , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist , The Classic, Easy Scottish Mountain Routes , Matt's Bucketlist , Diffs To Deck Off

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User Date Notes
Michael Haywood 3 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Enjoyable route, although very chilly on the day. As a word of warning to future climbers, we had fairly major issues with getting the ropes stuck on the abseil. We abseiled down the face of Prore and ensured the knots were over the edge. We couldn't pull them through. There might have been a twist and luckily other climbers were at the top to sort it our for us. Then we did Fallout Corner and the same thing happened on the abseil, this time we ensured there was no twist. Again other climbers pulled them through at the top for us. Then the next party down the abseil also got their ropes stuck too. There seems to be too much friction on the rock between the anchor and the edge to pull the ropes through. We tried going uphill etc. to change the angle but made no difference. Not sure what to suggest, best of luck!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Enjoyable route, although very chilly on the day. As a word of warning to future climbers, we had fairly major issues with getting the ropes stuck on the abseil. We abseiled down the face of Prore and ensured the knots were over the edge. We couldn't pull them through. There might have been a twist and luckily other climbers were at the top to sort it our for us. Then we did Fallout Corner and the same thing happened on the abseil, this time we ensured there was no twist. Again other climbers pulled them through at the top for us. Then the next party down the abseil also got their ropes stuck too. There seems to be too much friction on the rock between the anchor and the edge to pull the ropes through. We tried going uphill etc. to change the angle but made no difference. Not sure what to suggest, best of luck!!
DHollands 7 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Looks like tat at halfway belay is cut? Top abseil tat in good condition
Show beta
βeta: Looks like tat at halfway belay is cut? Top abseil tat in good condition
Lewis Callum Black 23 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Block midway up is very loose. It looks sound from below, I only noticed how loose it was once I stood on it! Climbed with Kev, we got caught up in some pretty bad weather and decided to bail off after the second pitch. Left a locker and a 240 up there for the taking!
Show beta
βeta: Block midway up is very loose. It looks sound from below, I only noticed how loose it was once I stood on it! Climbed with Kev, we got caught up in some pretty bad weather and decided to bail off after the second pitch. Left a locker and a 240 up there for the taking!
Random Tyke 20 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: My first lead in Scotland (1972, age 16) - pretty sure it was only rated VD in those days.
βeta?
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βeta: My first lead in Scotland (1972, age 16) - pretty sure it was only rated VD in those days.
CameronDuff14 13 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Abseil tat in situ at halfway belay and top of route, in ok condition May 2023
βeta?
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βeta: Abseil tat in situ at halfway belay and top of route, in ok condition May 2023
LoganDuguid 27 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Loose block on main pitch inside the chimney.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Loose block on main pitch inside the chimney.
sparkybatteryboy 18 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Awesome sustained climbing loads of protection
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Awesome sustained climbing loads of protection

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Guidebooks for Cairn Gorm - Cairn Lochan

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