UKH
80m, 4 pitches. This is a classic climb. Once at the bottom of the climb there is an old piton about 3metres up in the rock to the left, either use this or solo up to the first real belay point 10m above. easy placements here and a good view of practically the whole climb. The crack/chimney above this is narrow but deep often going back 4m or more. There are good ledges and foot placements for most of the climb and an abundance of welded gear remains in the wall. Guides mostly split the rest of the climb into 3 pitches but the next 2 pitches are easily combined as one. All the belay points are perfect with wide ledges or chock stones in the crack. The last belay has two ledges 3 metres apart, since the crack veers of here this is a possible abseil point back to the bottom of the y gully

R.B.FRERE, K.A.ROBERTSON 1939.

Ticklists

Classic Rock , Ultimate Scottish Rock , Scottish Classic Rock , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , 2013 Scottish Multi Pitch Mission , The Baron's Bucket List , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , RGU challange list , Scottish Rock Benchmarks , Mountain Rock , Garry Latter, Scottish Ticklist up to VS , Cairngorm Classic Rock Challenge , RGU Shelterstone , Wishlist 2021/22 , Carrotte's summer sends (multi pitch edition) , The boys climb da rocks. , Scotland wishlist

Feedback

User Date Notes
CameronDuff14 13 May Show βeta
βeta: Abseil tat in situ at halfway belay and top of route, in ok condition May 2023 		βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Abseil tat in situ at halfway belay and top of route, in ok condition May 2023
LoganDuguid 27 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Loose block on main pitch inside the chimney. 		βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Loose block on main pitch inside the chimney.
sparkybatteryboy 18 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Awesome sustained climbing loads of protection 		βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Awesome sustained climbing loads of protection

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Cairn Gorm - Cairn Lochan

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book
Scottish Rock Climbs (Wired) Cover
Scottish Rock Climbs (Wired) (2022)
Scottish Mountaineering Club
By Kevin Howett
Guidebook correction for this climb
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