Rockfax Description
Climb the groove just left of the thin crack that leads to the roof. Move onto the arete and make a hard but well-protected pull into the crack, then power up to the small ledge. Follow the crack more easily to a two-bolt belay on the ledge. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climb the remains of Woosty Woof up big ledges to a niche. From here place bombproof gear then make difficult moves rightwards to get established in the finger crack. Follow this with sustained interest to the top.
Ticklists
Dinorwig Essentials , North Wales Rock Graded List , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , AMC Uni Ticklist , MUMC Ticklist , WideBoyz Crack School , Tom Randalls Classic Finger Cracks , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 30 E-grades for my 30th birthday , Welsh Slate Trad , Michelle's crack ticklist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Slate Mastery , Target Routes 2019/2020 , North Wales E Breakthrough , LSMC to do , Wales Trip - 2022 , Slate Pyramid , Llidberis , Slate Goals , Recommended Slate
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lewis Callum Black | 20 Jun |
Show βeta
βeta: My first E1, crux is well protected so felt fine commuting to it. Just need a full set of nuts and some medium cams. Lovely route, two bolts at the top for a belay and you can walk off. My brother Can seconded it, also a first in the grade, buzzing! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: My first E1, crux is well protected so felt fine commuting to it. Just need a full set of nuts and some medium cams. Lovely route, two bolts at the top for a belay and you can walk off. My brother Can seconded it, also a first in the grade, buzzing! |
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| Etta | 1 May |
Show βeta
βeta: Broke off a good-ish hold (coaster size) at around 2/3 height, to the left of the crack system, just after the good rest before the second layback bit. It came off unexpectedly as I was pulling on it. Luckily there was nobody at the bottom of the route at that time, considering it was quite busy earlier. I used my nut key to remove all the loose bits after it broke and then climbed on using different holds. Doesn't affect the grade. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Broke off a good-ish hold (coaster size) at around 2/3 height, to the left of the crack system, just after the good rest before the second layback bit. It came off unexpectedly as I was pulling on it. Luckily there was nobody at the bottom of the route at that time, considering it was quite busy earlier. I used my nut key to remove all the loose bits after it broke and then climbed on using different holds. Doesn't affect the grade. |
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| maddinaish1 | 25 Feb |
Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic route, really cool moves. Definitely worth a go! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Fantastic route, really cool moves. Definitely worth a go! |
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| Tall Oak | 22 Aug, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: I didnt like the look of this, but actually it was right in my \'stretch\' zone 1. Very cool moves coming out the cave and into the crack system. Bouldery moves to gain elevation which I loooooooove. Cool route. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I didnt like the look of this, but actually it was right in my 'stretch' zone 1. Very cool moves coming out the cave and into the crack system. Bouldery moves to gain elevation which I loooooooove. Cool route. |
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| Tom Fullen | 3 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: There is a detached flake just after the step right but it looks like it’s lodged in the crack. Take care. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: There is a detached flake just after the step right but it looks like it’s lodged in the crack. Take care. |
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| Elliot Strowger | 1 Mar, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Great route with some nice laybacks. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Great route with some nice laybacks. |
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| LucHesdon | 21 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: polished feet | ||
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Show beta
βeta: polished feet |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Bus Stop Quarry
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Crucible
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Craig Yr Ogof (Cwm Silyn))