Restricted Access

Please avoid damaging fences - use the stiles provided. Historically there were access problems here, partially as a result of liability concerns and also due to damage to fences, but these appear to be resolved at this time.

There has been significant rock fall across this area over the past few years, climbers should check the route and be aware of more collapsing rock. Routes that have been affected are Septuagenarian, Guillotine, Wusty Wolf and possibly the start of Fool’s Gold.

 

 

25m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the groove just left of the thin crack that leads to the roof. Move onto the arete and make a hard but well-protected pull into the crack, then power up to the small ledge. Follow the crack more easily to a two-bolt belay on the ledge. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb the remains of Woosty Woof up big ledges to a niche. From here place bombproof gear then make difficult moves rightwards to get established in the finger crack. Follow this with sustained interest to the top.

Ticklists

Dinorwig Essentials , North Wales Rock Graded List , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , AMC Uni Ticklist , MUMC Ticklist , WideBoyz Crack School , Tom Randalls Classic Finger Cracks , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 30 E-grades for my 30th birthday , Welsh Slate Trad , Michelle's crack ticklist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Slate Mastery , Target Routes 2019/2020 , North Wales E Breakthrough , LSMC to do , Wales Trip - 2022 , Slate Pyramid , Llidberis , Slate Goals , Recommended Slate

Feedback

User Date Notes
Lewis Callum Black 20 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: My first E1, crux is well protected so felt fine commuting to it. Just need a full set of nuts and some medium cams. Lovely route, two bolts at the top for a belay and you can walk off. My brother Can seconded it, also a first in the grade, buzzing!
Show beta
βeta: My first E1, crux is well protected so felt fine commuting to it. Just need a full set of nuts and some medium cams. Lovely route, two bolts at the top for a belay and you can walk off. My brother Can seconded it, also a first in the grade, buzzing!
Etta 1 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Broke off a good-ish hold (coaster size) at around 2/3 height, to the left of the crack system, just after the good rest before the second layback bit. It came off unexpectedly as I was pulling on it. Luckily there was nobody at the bottom of the route at that time, considering it was quite busy earlier. I used my nut key to remove all the loose bits after it broke and then climbed on using different holds. Doesn't affect the grade.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Broke off a good-ish hold (coaster size) at around 2/3 height, to the left of the crack system, just after the good rest before the second layback bit. It came off unexpectedly as I was pulling on it. Luckily there was nobody at the bottom of the route at that time, considering it was quite busy earlier. I used my nut key to remove all the loose bits after it broke and then climbed on using different holds. Doesn't affect the grade.
maddinaish1 25 Feb, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic route, really cool moves. Definitely worth a go!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic route, really cool moves. Definitely worth a go!
Tall Oak 22 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: I didnt like the look of this, but actually it was right in my \'stretch\' zone 1. Very cool moves coming out the cave and into the crack system. Bouldery moves to gain elevation which I loooooooove. Cool route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I didnt like the look of this, but actually it was right in my 'stretch' zone 1. Very cool moves coming out the cave and into the crack system. Bouldery moves to gain elevation which I loooooooove. Cool route.
Tom Fullen 3 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: There is a detached flake just after the step right but it looks like it’s lodged in the crack. Take care.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There is a detached flake just after the step right but it looks like it’s lodged in the crack. Take care.
Elliot Strowger 1 Mar, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Great route with some nice laybacks.
Show beta
βeta: Great route with some nice laybacks.
LucHesdon 21 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: polished feet
Show beta
βeta: polished feet

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Bus Stop Quarry

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High E2
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Votes cast 382
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Votes cast 337
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Grooves

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Cyrn Las (Gyrn Las))

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