Restricted Access

Please avoid damaging fences - use the stiles provided. Historically there were access problems here, partially as a result of liability concerns and also due to damage to fences, but these appear to be resolved at this time.

There has been significant rock fall across this area over the past few years, climbers should check the route and be aware of more collapsing rock. Routes that have been affected are Septuagenarian, Guillotine, Wusty Wolf and possibly the start of Fool’s Gold.

 

 

Rockfax Description
An interesting flake feature 4m right of Fool's Gold. Climb up around the blunt arete to gain the thin flake and a spike (first real gear). Follow the flake left into Fool's Gold and finish up this. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
an interesting flake feature right of fools gold. climb up to a spike then traverse left on to fools gold. it does get very interesting as you get higher!

steve haston.

Ticklists

Radical Rockcats 2nd Year of Uni Ticklist , 30 E-grades for my 30th birthday

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User Date Notes
JSH 13 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: broken hold now just before you reach the spike, makes for a better hold & possible hook. The move up to the spike is now longer and harder though.
Show beta
βeta: broken hold now just before you reach the spike, makes for a better hold & possible hook. The move up to the spike is now longer and harder though.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Bus Stop Quarry

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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 13
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 13
Style of Ascent
Toproped
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Bridge Across Forever

Grade: E5 6b ***
(Gideon Quarries [Glyn Rhonwy])

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