450m, 16 pitches.

Rockfax Description
450m. The gully can be climbed in the wet, the limiting factor being the volume of water. Difficulty and interest increases with height as does the scenery, culminating in the Devil's Cauldron (Pitch 15). Only this pitch is VS, although more will feel like it in the wet. The gully starts at an altitude of 360m, with several easy pitches. Pitch 4 is topped by a huge chockstone, best climbed by the groove and crack on its left. Pitch 5, the Red Slab, climbs the left wall (25m). Above, a huge boulder blocks the gully. Climb a crack on the left wall about 6m back from the boulder, then step back right into the gully. The left fork is a short tributary; the true gully is the right fork. Pitch 8 is the Hundred Foot Pitch, where the stream forms a fine waterfall. Pitch 9 is the Piano Pitch. Cross the watercourse to the left wall, and above a small but beckoning pool make a right traverse, ending by a delicate move on to a sloping chockstone. At pitch 10, The Converging Walls, a ramp on the right leads to a 20m cave pitch, with narrowing walls and a waterfall at the back. A few metres out on the left wall is a small ledge. Gain the ledge and then bridge up, facing in, until it is possible to reach good holds on the right wall. This pitch can be avoided by a ridge on the left. Several short pitches then lead to the Devil's Cauldron, a singularly confined and impressive cleft. See below for an exit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Mind-altering!

Ticklists

Classic Rock , The 100 Best UK VS routes? , Ultimate Scottish Rock , Scottish Mid-Grade Multi-Pitch , Scottish Classic Rock , Through Routes! , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , MIA logbook must haves! , Mountain Rock (big mid grade summit routes on rock!) , Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2 , Type 2 Fun , The Big Easys , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , Scottish Rock Benchmarks , Lochaber Esoterica , EUMC - Must do climbs , Garry Latter, Scottish Ticklist up to VS , 50 Top Scottish VS's , Scottish Four Star Multi Pitch Routes to E2 (and Old Man Of Hoy) , Carrotte's summer sends (multi pitch edition) , A.P's summer , Scotland wishlist , HS-HVS adventures , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist , Scotland climbing

Feedback

User Date Notes
CaptainJimbad 13 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Bailed after pitch 5 (+/- 3?). One of the most serious solo pitches I've ever done on incredibly slimey rock. Tried to rope up for the next pitch which was soaking wet, had a little ground fall as there was zero friction. That shocked me enough to decide to bail. Lots of big boulders perched precariously on the edge of the gorge doesn't fill you with confidence. The guidebook was useless , it gives pitch descriptions referring to chockstones and waterfalls, which could honestly be any pitch. Very humbled and very glad we abandoned it when we did. Off to the Clachaig.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Bailed after pitch 5 (+/- 3?). One of the most serious solo pitches I've ever done on incredibly slimey rock. Tried to rope up for the next pitch which was soaking wet, had a little ground fall as there was zero friction. That shocked me enough to decide to bail. Lots of big boulders perched precariously on the edge of the gorge doesn't fill you with confidence. The guidebook was useless , it gives pitch descriptions referring to chockstones and waterfalls, which could honestly be any pitch. Very humbled and very glad we abandoned it when we did. Off to the Clachaig.
sblake 6 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: bit lose and wet in places but no where near as bad as imagined. Direct finish hardest part by a way, smaller the bag the better for this.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: bit lose and wet in places but no where near as bad as imagined. Direct finish hardest part by a way, smaller the bag the better for this.
meanderthal 6 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Last pitch is 32m, not 22m as in Gary Latter's guide.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Last pitch is 32m, not 22m as in Gary Latter's guide.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Buachaille Etive Mor

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 47
Votes cast 48
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Old Wall

Grade: VS 4b ***
(Polldubh Crags, Glen Nevis)

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