Rockfax Description
110m. Another combination climb, high in its grade and with two excellent and contrasting pitches. The line of the route follows the parallel corner right of Bludger's Revelation (pitch 2), crosses that route and follows a shallow groove and chocolate coloured wall to the right of Doom Arete.
1. 20m As for Bludger's Revelation.
2) 5c, 45m. A big pitch, often wet. Climb the detached flake to the foot of the groove. From the top of the flake step left on to a steep wall and pull on to the arete (hard). Regain the groove which is sustained and well protected. Take a semihanging belay at the top of the groove, or ropes permitting, cross the slab on the left and go up to the small block belay shared with Doom Arete and Bludger's Revelation, pitch 4.
3. 45m 5c A bold lead. From the Bludger's Revelation stance, climb the dark streak in the wall above and enter a left-facing groove, intricate (not a more prominent groove which is 2 or 3m to the right at this point). Continue up the line of the dark streak to a crack leading to a break with a grass ledge, 2m to the left (possible belay). Continue up the crack to easier ground. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5 , 4 Star Scottish rock
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| arose | 7 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Two main pitches as per SMC guide. Pays to have climbed bludgers to know where you are on the Face | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Two main pitches as per SMC guide. Pays to have climbed bludgers to know where you are on the Face |
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| masa-alpin | 16 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: The photo topo of the SMC selective (2005) is clearest. However, Latter\'s guide \"Scottish Rock Vol.1 South\" (2012, original) seems more accurate in description overall than it and definitive \"Glencoe\" (2001), in particular the pitch lengths. Note that the suggested P2 belay in Latter\'s is not recommended (the gear isn\'t good), and better climb further up for several metres (a block and peg on the shelf up and left of the ramp, as of 2019 summer). The last pitch is 4c as in Latter\'s; you can\'t reach the last couple of pitches in one big 45m pitch as described in the SMC selective (2005). | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The photo topo of the SMC selective (2005) is clearest. However, Latter's guide "Scottish Rock Vol.1 South" (2012, original) seems more accurate in description overall than it and definitive "Glencoe" (2001), in particular the pitch lengths. Note that the suggested P2 belay in Latter's is not recommended (the gear isn't good), and better climb further up for several metres (a block and peg on the shelf up and left of the ramp, as of 2019 summer). The last pitch is 4c as in Latter's; you can't reach the last couple of pitches in one big 45m pitch as described in the SMC selective (2005). |
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Guidebooks for Buachaille Etive Mor
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The Ho Chi Min Trail
Grade: E2 ***
(Beinn Eighe)