Rockfax Description
130m. This combination, with a vital link pitch, provides a superb and highly enjoyable outing. Two very prominent parallel grooves will be seen towards the left-hand side of the main face. This takes the left-hand groove. Start beside a corner about 10m down from Raven's Gully.
1. 20m Climb to the right of the corner, then easily up and left to below the groove.
2) 5a, 20m. The next pitch is both steep and sustained. Climb by a detached flake right of the groove, step left into it, then continue on good holds to a good ledge.
3) 5a, 15m. The link pitch. Move left to the edge, climb up for 2m, traverse left into a vertical crack and follow this to a poor belay on a sloping corner stance (it is perhaps better to continue).
4) 4c, 15m. Move right round the edge of the wall and gain a broad right-facing ramp of excellent rock. Trend leftwards, then step left again onto a much narrower elevated ramp which leads right to a small stance and block.
5) 5a, 35m. Swing down and right into the steep groove and follow this for about 6m. Make a difficult right traverse to a flake-crack which is a prominent feature of the climb. Using undercut holds on the flake, swing into the crack (exposed) and climb up to a poor stance below an overhang at 25m. Avoid this on the left and go up 10m to a ledge.
6) 4a, 25m. Follow the crest of the large flake to the right, and then more easily via a deep corner to finish. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
****
A link up of the routes Bludgers and Revelation. A classic.

1. 15m Starting at the base of slime wall climb to reach 2 prominent corner's.
2. 25m 5a Climb the left most corner that often seeps in its lower half to a ledge with peg belay
3. 25m 4c Step down and left, traversing round the corner and past a prominent detached spike. Continue upwards to a large sloping ledge.
4. 25m 4b Move right off the ledge round the corner to gain ramps. Move up these keeping a look out on the left higher ramp for block belay.
5. 30m 4c Continue up ramps towards Flake of Revelation. Climb this in an excellent exposed position, to a small ledge.
6. 20m 4a Follow the flake upwards and onto North Buttress

Ticklists

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