137m, 6 pitches. ****
A link up of the routes Bludgers and Revelation. A classic.

1. 15m Starting at the base of slime wall climb to reach 2 prominent corner's.
2. 25m 5a Climb the left most corner that often seeps in its lower half to a ledge with peg belay
3. 25m 4c Step down and left, traversing round the corner and past a prominent detached spike. Continue upwards to a large sloping ledge.
4. 25m 4b Move right off the ledge round the corner to gain ramps. Move up these keeping a look out on the left higher ramp for block belay.
5. 30m 4c Continue up ramps towards Flake of Revelation. Climb this in an excellent exposed position, to a small ledge.
6. 20m 4a Follow the flake upwards and onto North Buttress

Ticklists

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Feedback

User Date Notes
fifthsunset 25 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Rockfax's buttress information says "[Slime Wall] is a misnomer, as the rock is excellent and very compact bubbly rhyolite that is virtually free from vegetation." Unfortunately I stopped reading there and didn't get to the somewhat contradictory bit that says "requires several days of dry weather after extended periods of rain." So my feedback is: avoid Slime Wall if it looks wet.
βeta?
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βeta: Rockfax's buttress information says "[Slime Wall] is a misnomer, as the rock is excellent and very compact bubbly rhyolite that is virtually free from vegetation." Unfortunately I stopped reading there and didn't get to the somewhat contradictory bit that says "requires several days of dry weather after extended periods of rain." So my feedback is: avoid Slime Wall if it looks wet.
GKerr 12 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The block belay is easy to find. Just up and left of the ramp in a corner about 6 metres down and left of the flake crack. Two old pegs with a small bit of in-situ cord.
βeta?
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βeta: The block belay is easy to find. Just up and left of the ramp in a corner about 6 metres down and left of the flake crack. Two old pegs with a small bit of in-situ cord.
Nathan Adam 23 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: It’s logical to continue the rightwards traverse across on GL’s third pitch towards Shibboleth and belay directly below the Revelation flake. The stance isn’t superb but the gear is good and saves hunting around for wherever that block belay actually is. No change of grade going this way.
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βeta: It’s logical to continue the rightwards traverse across on GL’s third pitch towards Shibboleth and belay directly below the Revelation flake. The stance isn’t superb but the gear is good and saves hunting around for wherever that block belay actually is. No change of grade going this way.
Gus_w 26 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: I fully endorse the comment below, topo is usable though
βeta?
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βeta: I fully endorse the comment below, topo is usable though
LCWatson 28 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The Gary Latter guidebook description of this route is horrendous and leads to a dark place inside yourself.
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βeta: The Gary Latter guidebook description of this route is horrendous and leads to a dark place inside yourself.
Dr Toph 24 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Lots of tottering loose rock on north buttress, along top of slime wall above other routes. Take great care when scrambling off if anyone else is in the gully or on the cliff!
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βeta: Lots of tottering loose rock on north buttress, along top of slime wall above other routes. Take great care when scrambling off if anyone else is in the gully or on the cliff!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Buachaille Etive Mor

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 69
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 49
Votes cast 64
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Inbred

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Creag Dubh (Newtonmore))

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