Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

20m.

Rockfax Description
Superb - sustained and delicate climbing to a steep finish. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 18/Apr/1994.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50 , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Classic Portland 7as (2* +) , Nat's Summer 2016 Ticklist , Portland , The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist , The Miscampbell/Stephenson recovery tour. , Portland 7a/+ , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Portland Projects 6c-7a+ , Portland scheming , Pongoose Portland Sport Climbing Gems , Portland Pyramid (2024)

Feedback

User Date Notes
stefangutnickallen 30 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: There is still a rusted out maillon on one of the staples, I tried but couldn't remove it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There is still a rusted out maillon on one of the staples, I tried but couldn't remove it.
Jus 5 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Really lovely fingery crux. Loads of nice rests. Big move off jugs to jugs at the top. 3 stars.
Show beta
βeta: Really lovely fingery crux. Loads of nice rests. Big move off jugs to jugs at the top. 3 stars.
Adam Lincoln 29 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Very good technical route, and much better than Medussa falls. Cool finishing moves from jug aswell.
Show beta
βeta: Very good technical route, and much better than Medussa falls. Cool finishing moves from jug aswell.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor South

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 185
Votes cast 180
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Medusa Falls

Grade: 7a ***
(Blacknor South)

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