Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

15m.

Rockfax Description
An eye-catching frozen sheet of flowstone pipes. The initial section is insecure and slippery if taken direct. © Rockfax

FA. Crispin Waddy 08/Aug/1987.

Ticklists

Dorset Sport Climbs A-Z , ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50 , Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012 , 3 Star Portland , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Classic Portland 7as (2* +) , Portland , Portland 7a/+ , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Cool Names , Portland Olympian , UK Flowstone , Portland Projects 6c-7a+

Feedback

User Date Notes
TradRat 10 May Show βeta
βeta: What are guidebooks for if not to clarify things? My take: Two lines of bolts, two quite different climbs. Left line is 7a(+?) right line 6c(+). Polish is present but plays very little role, getting to the first bolt is easy. Left line is the one deserving of 3 stars, crux is the hard and technical stuff from 2nd bolt to 4th, the rest of the route keeps interest and is no pushover.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: What are guidebooks for if not to clarify things? My take: Two lines of bolts, two quite different climbs. Left line is 7a(+?) right line 6c(+). Polish is present but plays very little role, getting to the first bolt is easy. Left line is the one deserving of 3 stars, crux is the hard and technical stuff from 2nd bolt to 4th, the rest of the route keeps interest and is no pushover.
John_Beesley 9 May Show βeta
βeta: What’s up with the double bolts on this nowadays? Are they different routes?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: What’s up with the double bolts on this nowadays? Are they different routes?
J1_TOV 7 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Gipping
Show beta
βeta: Gipping
gemmapig 30 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Slippy feet if you go direct.
Show beta
βeta: Slippy feet if you go direct.
Monk 29 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: I don't think this is over-rated at all! This follows a clear line on weird and wonderful rock. The first bolt is high and was scary to onsight as I muffed the sequence but there is an easier way. I loved this route.
Show beta
βeta: I don't think this is over-rated at all! This follows a clear line on weird and wonderful rock. The first bolt is high and was scary to onsight as I muffed the sequence but there is an easier way. I loved this route.
Jus 5 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Do most people start right of the first bolt and don't engage with the tufa proper until after clipping the second bolt?
Show beta
βeta: Do most people start right of the first bolt and don't engage with the tufa proper until after clipping the second bolt?
Adam Lincoln 29 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Over-rated. Inbalanced difficulty. Bad placing of first bolt. Nastily polished at start.
Show beta
βeta: Over-rated. Inbalanced difficulty. Bad placing of first bolt. Nastily polished at start.
Alun 7 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: First bolt is high but easy moves to reach it. Crux is reaching (and clipping) the second bolt, I found it ridiculously slippy but then this was my first route on flowstone. The rest of the route is much easier if you're not too pumped from the crux!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First bolt is high but easy moves to reach it. Crux is reaching (and clipping) the second bolt, I found it ridiculously slippy but then this was my first route on flowstone. The rest of the route is much easier if you're not too pumped from the crux!
Ben Stokes 19 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A fine route, but not as good as To Wish the Impossible
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A fine route, but not as good as To Wish the Impossible

Logged Ascents

827 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Blacknor South

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 282 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 166
Votes cast 148
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
To Wish the Impossible

Grade: 7a ***
(Blacknor South)

Loading Notifications...