Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

15m.

Rockfax Description
Another quality line that is at the bottom of the grade. © Rockfax

FA. H.Venables 15.4.1989. FFA. Steve Taylor 3.10.1993.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Classic Portland 7as (2* +) , Portland , The Portland Olympian Challenge (Pete and Butters's routes) , Spanish crew 2018 , Portland 7a/+ , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Portland Olympian , Sam and Jerome (Portland Olympian) , Sam and Jerome 2.0 (Portland Olympian) , Portland scheming

Feedback

User Date Notes
Dalai Farmer 17 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Very little to hold on to on the top slab ! Not soft for the grade IMHO
Show beta
βeta: Very little to hold on to on the top slab ! Not soft for the grade IMHO
Adam Lincoln 29 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant route. Far far better than it looks from the ground!
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant route. Far far better than it looks from the ground!
Ben Stokes 31 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Easy climbing up to the mid height ledge and a really absorbing crimpy section above the overlap.
Show beta
βeta: Easy climbing up to the mid height ledge and a really absorbing crimpy section above the overlap.
John Alcock 6 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent fingery crux. Tall people seem to make huge reaches between pockets. I found the intermediate crimps were quite adequate.
Show beta
βeta: Excellent fingery crux. Tall people seem to make huge reaches between pockets. I found the intermediate crimps were quite adequate.

Logged Ascents

872 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Blacknor South

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 209 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 134
Votes cast 118
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
DWS
Not Set
Dogged
Redpoint
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Medusa Falls

Grade: 7a ***
(Blacknor South)

Loading Notifications...