Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

18m.

Rockfax Description
An old trad route - bolts on nearby routes protect adequately. Start up Sacred Angel, and at a ledge traverse left into Talk. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A trad route which has effectively been retro-bolted by those routes here abouts. Start up Sacred Angel, climbing onto the ledge. Traverse left into the flake/groove of Talk and finish as for this.

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Portland

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Guidebooks for Blacknor South

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Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Reptile Smile

Grade: 6a+ ***
(Blacknor North)

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