23m.
Rockfax Description
Great jug-hauling to a fingery finish. © Rockfax
FA. Simon Vaughan. Named after a character in an Aussie soap. Oct/1992.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50 , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Orange Spot Portland , UK "Orange Spot Sport" - The Best of The Rest? , Portland sub 6b , Portland , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Portland Sendathon , The Dorset Sub 7a Silly Name Game
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ClimbMoore | 30 Mar |
Show βeta
βeta: Black section around third clip I found challenging, but if you go right from the main handhold it's much easier. Conserve as much energy for the top as your pumped arms need to grab smaller handholds! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Black section around third clip I found challenging, but if you go right from the main handhold it's much easier. Conserve as much energy for the top as your pumped arms need to grab smaller handholds! |
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| Matt Clarke | 23 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: Stay away. No way 6a. Two rusty bail mallians don’t lie. Sketchy finish and (for me) one to avoid. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Stay away. No way 6a. Two rusty bail mallians don’t lie. Sketchy finish and (for me) one to avoid. |
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| FabioM | 15 Apr, 2019 |
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βeta: One of the best 6a in the island! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: One of the best 6a in the island! |
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| nugski | 18 Apr, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: this is the hardest route i have completed so far. it is juggy most of the way but near the top tere is such a dificult bit and the very top i did a heal hook to a rockover. not sure if that was were i was supposed to go and not sure how i didn't fall as my legs were shaking more than a vibrator!!! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: this is the hardest route i have completed so far. it is juggy most of the way but near the top tere is such a dificult bit and the very top i did a heal hook to a rockover. not sure if that was were i was supposed to go and not sure how i didn't fall as my legs were shaking more than a vibrator!!! |
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| Wilbur | 3 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Ripped a hold off this over the weekend and nearly decked. Shouldn't affect the grade but beware as i didn't think it was friable at all the first time i did it but it must be!! (or i'm fat, which is a possibility!) | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Ripped a hold off this over the weekend and nearly decked. Shouldn't affect the grade but beware as i didn't think it was friable at all the first time i did it but it must be!! (or i'm fat, which is a possibility!) |
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| Alex More | 29 Dec, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Is this route named after the Cinema Paradiso in Wanaka, NZ? The one with the car and home made cookies? | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Is this route named after the Cinema Paradiso in Wanaka, NZ? The one with the car and home made cookies? |
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| Alex More | 27 Dec, 2004 |
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βeta: Cinema Paradiso is loose take care around the top | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Cinema Paradiso is loose take care around the top |
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| Richard Horn | 1 Nov, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: I thought the route was pretty dissapointing and hard for 6a (6a+ would be right), but having read these comments and seeing the photo above (not the route I climbed) it appears I was climbing Cinema Paradiso to the right. Some good moves in the last 20feet but the bottom third is thrutchy and awkward and I nearly took a lob off the middle section when a crimpy hand hold disintegrated, typical unnerving move to clip the lower off like many routes at Portland aswell. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I thought the route was pretty dissapointing and hard for 6a (6a+ would be right), but having read these comments and seeing the photo above (not the route I climbed) it appears I was climbing Cinema Paradiso to the right. Some good moves in the last 20feet but the bottom third is thrutchy and awkward and I nearly took a lob off the middle section when a crimpy hand hold disintegrated, typical unnerving move to clip the lower off like many routes at Portland aswell. |
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| Wilbur | 28 Jul, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: jugs, jugs, jugs, jugs, jugs, jugs...... and then suddenly slopey crimp and a palm for the lower off - makes you think at the end! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: jugs, jugs, jugs, jugs, jugs, jugs...... and then suddenly slopey crimp and a palm for the lower off - makes you think at the end! |
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| Alex More | 14 Jun, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Great route but loose sections at top, pulled a nice sized block down towards my be-layer who dived out the way - impressive stuff | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Great route but loose sections at top, pulled a nice sized block down towards my be-layer who dived out the way - impressive stuff |
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Route of Interest
Fear's Younger Brother
Grade: 6a ***
(Blacknor Far South)