Restricted Access

USER ATTENTION

Report of a lose bolt June 2023 - “One of the staples wobbles. As looking out at the sea it is the top left staple on the flat top of rock. This is directly above the iron ladder which gives access from Sharbutts Quarry to Sacred Angel Area”

from 14/06/2023

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

22m.

Rockfax Description
Begin just to the right of Meg's Got Leukaemia in a small corner. © Rockfax

FA. Mick Ward 2002.

Ticklists

Portland , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Portland Sendathon

Feedback

User Date Notes
Hudders 22 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The first low roof at the low bolts appears to have come away at some point and there is a large loose rock which is a concern enough that I down climbed and walked away from it. It was very dirty to boot.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The first low roof at the low bolts appears to have come away at some point and there is a large loose rock which is a concern enough that I down climbed and walked away from it. It was very dirty to boot.
FabioM 15 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Not as nice as Meg's Got Leukeamia but worth a go.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not as nice as Meg's Got Leukeamia but worth a go.
Barry Kerslake 22 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: There is quite often a seagull nest in Aug/Sept just before the LO. Beware as you may come face to face with a gull chick as I did today at the last break which will end up with both you and the chick becoming rather scared.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There is quite often a seagull nest in Aug/Sept just before the LO. Beware as you may come face to face with a gull chick as I did today at the last break which will end up with both you and the chick becoming rather scared.
John2 8 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Pulled a solid looking hold off onto my face low down, plenty of obviously loose holds in the vicinity. Good climbing higher up though. Could do with a clean up with a crowbar.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pulled a solid looking hold off onto my face low down, plenty of obviously loose holds in the vicinity. Good climbing higher up though. Could do with a clean up with a crowbar.
nick w 3 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: chossy and loose at bottom with clips from rocking blocks, lovely!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: chossy and loose at bottom with clips from rocking blocks, lovely!
Furzy Sleight 11 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Have to disagree - thought this was an excellent, independent route, only a lttle bit grubby at start
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Have to disagree - thought this was an excellent, independent route, only a lttle bit grubby at start

Logged Ascents

524 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Blacknor North

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 67 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 47
Votes cast 41
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Troubled water's - extension

Grade: 6a S1 ***
(Fisherman's Ledge)

Loading Notifications...