Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

19m.

Rockfax Description
A very good pitch from start to finish. The technical wall and pleasant groove culminate in a final pull onto the headwall using a vertical runnel. © Rockfax

FA. Neal Heanes Mar/2002.

Ticklists

A Guide for Progress in Dorset , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Orange Spot Portland , UK "Orange Spot Sport" - The Best of The Rest? , Portland sub 6b , Portland , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Portland Sendathon , Thomas & Alex Portland Olympian Oct22 , Portland Olympian , Dorset 2-3* 6a's

Feedback

User Date Notes
Lloyders 1 Jul, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Nice varied route. Tough for the grade due to the start. The 'Hollow' block seemed fine when i was hanging from it!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice varied route. Tough for the grade due to the start. The 'Hollow' block seemed fine when i was hanging from it!
nealh 31 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: the hollow block always was glued in (i,e. I rienforced this when I bolted the route even though I couldn't get it to move).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: the hollow block always was glued in (i,e. I rienforced this when I bolted the route even though I couldn't get it to move).
steve taylor 25 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: FA was Helen Heanes!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: FA was Helen Heanes!
Wilbur 22 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: very tough start at the grade. The rest is pleasant and low in the grade though!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: very tough start at the grade. The rest is pleasant and low in the grade though!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor Far South

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Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 59
Votes cast 54
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Reptile Smile

Grade: 6a+ ***
(Blacknor North)

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