Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

19m.

Rockfax Description
Varied climbing starting up the slightly left-trending line on the lower wall and passing a tufa shield just above mid-height. © Rockfax

FA. Ailsa Newcombe 08/Apr/1999.

Ticklists

Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012 , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Orange Spot Portland , Portland sub 6b , Portland , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Portland Sendathon , PO2021 , Portland Olympian , Dorset 2-3* 6a's

Feedback

User Date Notes
Alex More 27 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Climbed Paying it Forward this morning, the move between the 2nd and 3rd bolt felt more like some of the 6a+ routes about, the rest is nice though!
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βeta: Climbed Paying it Forward this morning, the move between the 2nd and 3rd bolt felt more like some of the 6a+ routes about, the rest is nice though!
Ben Stokes 30 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: This is a good little route with a nice technical start, though slightly surpassed by the addition of Paying it Forward to the left.
βeta?
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βeta: This is a good little route with a nice technical start, though slightly surpassed by the addition of Paying it Forward to the left.
nealh 29 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: dwaffie and pay it forward bothe seem good to go at 6a, no more, left again is carlos fandango belay by moi goes at 6b, poss 6b+ if you don't find several hidden holds, hope you like it
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: dwaffie and pay it forward bothe seem good to go at 6a, no more, left again is carlos fandango belay by moi goes at 6b, poss 6b+ if you don't find several hidden holds, hope you like it
John Alcock 6 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Agree with Al. Route to the left is also a pleasant 6a.
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βeta: Agree with Al. Route to the left is also a pleasant 6a.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor Far South

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Voting
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 87
Votes cast 88
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Troubled water's - extension

Grade: 6a S1 ***
(Fisherman's Ledge)

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