Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

28m.

Rockfax Description
A popular and sustained face climb. Start right of a low overhang. Climb up broken ground, then head up right to steeper and cleaner rock. Continue via sustained climbing up the bolt-line, passing a fingery and technical section at mid-height, to gain a fine finish. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 14/May/1989.

Ticklists

Dorset Sport Climbs A-Z , ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50 , West Country Climbs , 3 Star Portland , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Classic UK F7s , South coast sport/DWS ticklist , Classic Portland 7as (2* +) , Jurassic 7a , Portland , Gwenland , West Country Climbs: Sport Routes Grades 5 to 7a+ , The Miscampbell/Stephenson recovery tour. , Portland 7a/+ , Portland Trip , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Portland Olympian , Portland Projects 6c-7a+ , Pongoose Portland Sport Climbing Gems

Feedback

User Date Notes
slowmotion 24 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: I thought the crux clip was really tricky. I put a longer one on it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I thought the crux clip was really tricky. I put a longer one on it.
John Alcock 2 Aug, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Failed on a thin layback move high up in 80 degrees plus. Great climbing as far as I got.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Failed on a thin layback move high up in 80 degrees plus. Great climbing as far as I got.
tomrainbow 7 May, 2001 Show βeta
βeta: Surely this route deserves 3 stars! Brilliant climbing all the way.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Surely this route deserves 3 stars! Brilliant climbing all the way.

Logged Ascents

428 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Blacknor Central

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 246 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 98
Votes cast 92
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Dogged
Onsighted
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Walking on Sunshine

Grade: 7a ***
(Wallsend South)

Loading Notifications...