Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

24m.

Rockfax Description
Intricate and sustained climbing up the wall just to the right of the long groove of Cybernetic Orchard. Start right of a low overhang below a difficult-to-see bolt. Climb up broken ground to the main wall. Climb the wall directly via some hard climbing in its mid-section. The top has suffered a rockfall but has been reclimbed with no change in overall difficulty. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The flake/crack/block below the last bolt has come off, luckily no one was hurt. The route will now be a lot harder and will need to be reinspected (Oct 2019).

FA. Gary Gibson 04/May/2006.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland

Feedback

User Date Notes
tomdale 10 Jan, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Seems to be okay after reported rockfall. Not too much harder, but definitely not the romp to the top it once was.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Seems to be okay after reported rockfall. Not too much harder, but definitely not the romp to the top it once was.
tomrainbow 22 Apr, 2001 Show βeta
βeta: A fantastic route, steep, juggy and more exposed than your average Portland 6c. Will clean up well.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A fantastic route, steep, juggy and more exposed than your average Portland 6c. Will clean up well.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor Central

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Voting
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 27
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Halfway to Heaven

Grade: 7b ***
(Wallsend South)

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