Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

15m.

Rockfax Description
A line of steep buckets. One pair of biceps should suffice. © Rockfax

FA. Joff Cook 28/May/1995.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50 , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland for the beginner (lead climbs) , 4 - 5 Grade Climbs Portland Westcoast , Portland sub 6b , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock

Feedback

User Date Notes
Revs 23 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Good hand holds throughout, the Crux is about half way up the climb.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good hand holds throughout, the Crux is about half way up the climb.
Rob in a Field 27 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: lots of holds, most are large buckets, lots of grip for your feet, a bit disapointing really, the "hard bit" had lots off different ways of doing it and was simply easyer by missing all the "small" hold out. be careful of your rope running over the sharp rock - best not to toprope.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: lots of holds, most are large buckets, lots of grip for your feet, a bit disapointing really, the "hard bit" had lots off different ways of doing it and was simply easyer by missing all the "small" hold out. be careful of your rope running over the sharp rock - best not to toprope.
SteveWright1967 17 Apr, 2000 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent rock, reminiscent of the best of Pembroke.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Excellent rock, reminiscent of the best of Pembroke.

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