Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

16m.

Rockfax Description
An Interesting and technical line that is surprisingly sustained. © Rockfax

FA. Mike Robertson 27/May/1995.

Ticklists

Portland

Feedback

User Date Notes
Lloyders 12 Jul, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Good moves and it felt balancy at times. Wicked rock.... Low end 6b+.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good moves and it felt balancy at times. Wicked rock.... Low end 6b+.
Richard Horn 9 Mar, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Climbed onsight this route felt like 6b+. However the route is sequency and I imagine it may feel slightly soft for the grade for a worked ascent. Nice moves though!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Climbed onsight this route felt like 6b+. However the route is sequency and I imagine it may feel slightly soft for the grade for a worked ascent. Nice moves though!
Ewan 19 Mar, 2000 Show βeta
βeta: This route shares its lower off with 6 good biceps, and as such there is the potential for a lot of rope rub. Not reccommended for repeated top ropes.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This route shares its lower off with 6 good biceps, and as such there is the potential for a lot of rope rub. Not reccommended for repeated top ropes.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor Beach

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Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 13
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Buoys will be Buoys

Grade: 6b+ ***
(Battleship Back Cliff)

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