UKH

20m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
1) 4c, 10m. Climb the thin and polished left-hand crack then move awkwardly right to a blocky groove leading to a stance.
2) 4c, 10m. Traverse the rounded breaks out left to easy ground. A high tree makes a useful belay for timid seconds. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Bear in mind that what the BMC Froggatt to Black Rocks guide calls Birch Tree Wall is called Birch Tree Wall Direct on here and in the Rockfax guide.

FA. Jack London 1928.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Eastern Grit Jamming, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Eastern Peak Grit 100 VD- VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, World Graded List, Peak Rock/3/ A Decade of Expansion, The Black Rocks 1949 Guide VS Challenge, CUMC First Ascents, Stonnis Allstars, Top 50 Peak Cracks, Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), On Peak Rock, Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS, Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs, Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS

Feedback

User Date Notes
EarlyBird 9 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Does the traverse back right from the original left hand start go as a hand traverse or a foot traverse? The foot traverse seemed harder than 4c, not that I committed to it - the hand traverse seemed about right at 4c.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Does the traverse back right from the original left hand start go as a hand traverse or a foot traverse? The foot traverse seemed harder than 4c, not that I committed to it - the hand traverse seemed about right at 4c.
Duz Walker 7 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Gorgeous route. I also thought 5a a bit steep for the first crack, sinkers in the crack and thoughtfully created wee holes on the face. No large pro left and then rain made the traverse the trickiest bit for me and i have an official jamming disability.
Show beta
βeta: Gorgeous route. I also thought 5a a bit steep for the first crack, sinkers in the crack and thoughtfully created wee holes on the face. No large pro left and then rain made the traverse the trickiest bit for me and i have an official jamming disability.
nate 17 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: nice jams, good route. felt more like 4c but might just be me (no rope drag if you solo it)
βeta?
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βeta: nice jams, good route. felt more like 4c but might just be me (no rope drag if you solo it)
MeMeMe 22 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I think the original route was the left-hand variation? I did the direct version and it was quite slippy and hard, but well protected, I think in retrospect the left-hand route would of given a more consistent route. The traverse at the top is very nice. If you do it in a single pitch then watch for your rope getting caught in the diagonal crack heading up left, gives you tremendous rope drag.
βeta?
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βeta: I think the original route was the left-hand variation? I did the direct version and it was quite slippy and hard, but well protected, I think in retrospect the left-hand route would of given a more consistent route. The traverse at the top is very nice. If you do it in a single pitch then watch for your rope getting caught in the diagonal crack heading up left, gives you tremendous rope drag.
Nick Smith - Climbers 10 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The polished right-hand jamming crack is pretty hard work, but very satisfying. The long traverse left is hard to protect.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The polished right-hand jamming crack is pretty hard work, but very satisfying. The long traverse left is hard to protect.
Pythonist 4 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: To anyone trying this route... Don't do the direct start - start up the HVS variation on the left (twin cracks). Once at the ledge, make a beautiful traverse right to the top of the original starting crack and continue upwards from there. Still VS 5a, but one of the best routes I know of, up to E3...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: To anyone trying this route... Don't do the direct start - start up the HVS variation on the left (twin cracks). Once at the ledge, make a beautiful traverse right to the top of the original starting crack and continue upwards from there. Still VS 5a, but one of the best routes I know of, up to E3...
Dave Emms 29 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The left hand crack is well worth doing, makes for a great route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The left hand crack is well worth doing, makes for a great route.

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Mid HVS
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Low VS
High HS
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Votes cast 96
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
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High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 91
Votes cast 97
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Hargreaves' Original

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Stanage Popular)
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