Rockfax Description
Start as for Land Ho! but at the top of the crack step onto the face on the right. Cross to the base of the slab and balance up this to a delicate final move which is tricky for the short. © Rockfax
FA. Frank Elliott 1927.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List , Eastern Peak Grit 100 VD- VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/4/ Universities,Teams and Clubs in the 1930's , All trad climbs at Birchen Edge , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Birchen Edge 1981 guide routes , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Si dH | 23 Jan, 2005 |
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βeta: Not really much of a thrutch. Absolutely brilliant route, best route Ive done at Birchen. Not too bold really but sustained difficulties - unlike most things at Birchen this is no one-move-wonder. I found th ecrux to be the first move on the slab, not the top. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Not really much of a thrutch. Absolutely brilliant route, best route Ive done at Birchen. Not too bold really but sustained difficulties - unlike most things at Birchen this is no one-move-wonder. I found th ecrux to be the first move on the slab, not the top. |
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| Nutkey | 12 Jul, 2004 |
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βeta: I faced right and thrutched massively, my second bridged out and made it look easy... The slab was fun, and not as bold as I expected - was pleasantly surprised to get any gear in after the first break. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I faced right and thrutched massively, my second bridged out and made it look easy... The slab was fun, and not as bold as I expected - was pleasantly surprised to get any gear in after the first break. |
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| LakesWinter | 11 May, 2004 |
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βeta: Nah, just face right and thrutch away, nice and easy and very secure! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Nah, just face right and thrutch away, nice and easy and very secure! |
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| Alex Mason | 11 May, 2004 |
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βeta: when climbing the first crack use the dimples in the left face this makes it more do able | ||
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Show beta
βeta: when climbing the first crack use the dimples in the left face this makes it more do able |
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| Alex Mason | 11 May, 2004 |
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βeta: if you stick to the left hand side of the higher slab this makes it a good hvs 5a because the crack narrows and slopes | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: if you stick to the left hand side of the higher slab this makes it a good hvs 5a because the crack narrows and slopes |
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| leon | 5 Apr, 2004 |
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βeta: i found the start pretty tricky. the whole thing feels bold but no more than you'd expect for a VS slab route. a good route. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: i found the start pretty tricky. the whole thing feels bold but no more than you'd expect for a VS slab route. a good route. |
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| Skyfall | 31 Jan, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: I have to admi I found this quite hard at the grade. The initial crack is strenuous but the real crux of the matter is a series of steps up the front face, from break to break, which are adequately protected but feel bold. A class but bold route. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I have to admi I found this quite hard at the grade. The initial crack is strenuous but the real crux of the matter is a series of steps up the front face, from break to break, which are adequately protected but feel bold. A class but bold route. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Birchen Edge
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Phoenix Climb
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Shining Clough)