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At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving, but we feel this is no longer socially acceptable. You can read our statement here.

We have suspended the UKC Logbooks Top Ascents and Conditions pages and we will no longer accept ascents dated from 23rd March onwards. You can still upload your historic ascents.

UKClimbing Team

No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists

Cold Climbs, Great routes in the Coe, Mountaineering in Scotland: in the footsteps of WH Murray, 3 star Scottish winter, Cold Climbs (slimmed down), STAUMC Ticklist

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User Date Notes
LakesWinter 19 Feb Show βeta
βeta: Doing the first 2 pitches and abbing off doesn't count as doing the route. The route starts at the bottom and finishes at the top.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Doing the first 2 pitches and abbing off doesn't count as doing the route. The route starts at the bottom and finishes at the top.
8848 16 Feb Show βeta
βeta: First 2 pitches only then abbed off
 
Show beta
βeta: First 2 pitches only then abbed off
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
geoff b 25 Feb AltLd Good route with 3 absorbing crux sections but some crud on P1 crux, thin ice on P2 crux & lots of unconsolidated snow in the gully above. The LH finish was too thin so we went right & then rapped off.
with Simon Br, Dr. Nick
Good route with 3 absorbing crux sections but some crud on P1 crux, thin ice on P2 crux & lots of unconsolidated snow in the gully above. The LH finish was too thin so we went right & then rapped off.
with Simon Br, Dr. Nick
yamithrain 23 Feb 2nd
Phil_Brock 23 Feb Lead dnf Pretty lean so hard for the grade today. Rain from Friday must have stripped it back leaving a thin layer of ice on most of the rocks (gear hard to find) and the snow between ice pitches very hard (calf burning). Ice pitches short and a bit soft, hollow in places and awkwardly bulging at the crux as it's not properly formed. Needs a few more days to reform. Did first two pitches but ice smear for the left fork not thick enough to climb safely. Abbed back down.
Pretty lean so hard for the grade today. Rain from Friday must have stripped it back leaving a thin layer of ice on most of the rocks (gear hard to find) and the snow between ice pitches very hard (calf burning). Ice pitches short and a bit soft, hollow in places and awkwardly bulging at the crux as it's not properly formed. Needs a few more days to reform. Did first two pitches but ice smear for the left fork not thick enough to climb safely. Abbed back down.
Hidden 23 Feb AltLd dnf
Ali D 20 Feb AltLd dnf Melty. Placed one mediocre screw. Did two pitches and then abbed. Worse on the buttress than in storm Dennis last week.
with Rich Abell
Melty. Placed one mediocre screw. Did two pitches and then abbed. Worse on the buttress than in storm Dennis last week.
with Rich Abell
Rob_Morris1996 19 Feb AltLd O/S In good nick, stopped at the amphitheatre as didn't fancy the top half due to deep snow & likely avalanche conditions.
In good nick, stopped at the amphitheatre as didn't fancy the top half due to deep snow & likely avalanche conditions.
themattyshep 19 Feb AltLd O/S Up to the amphitheatre in 2x60m pitches (Rob P1, me P2), decided it wasn’t worth carrying on in the knee deep powder above so abbed.
Up to the amphitheatre in 2x60m pitches (Rob P1, me P2), decided it wasn’t worth carrying on in the knee deep powder above so abbed.
Hidden 18 Feb AltLd O/S
RM199 18 Feb AltLd O/S Belays ok, few runners, some soft neve over the top of the bulges at the minute. Classic!
Belays ok, few runners, some soft neve over the top of the bulges at the minute. Classic!
Hidden 16 Feb Lead O/S
Hidden 25 Jan, 2019 AltLd
Tom Seccombe 1 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S
Colin Mcgregor 1 Apr, 2018 AltLd
crowberry gully 20 Mar, 2018 AltLd Neve all over lochaber but the crux here was thin. As a climb its not great but Stob Coire nan Beith is such a fantastic mountain and this is an excellent way up it.
with ESteve
Neve all over lochaber but the crux here was thin. As a climb its not great but Stob Coire nan Beith is such a fantastic mountain and this is an excellent way up it.
with ESteve
Goodstuff 9 Mar, 2018 AltLd O/S Pitches 1 and 3 of four. Great climbing, marred slightly by lots of powder stomping between the steep bits. The mixed chimney on P3 was the highlight for me, though the short ice sections on the first two pitches are great too. Long way to the summit from the top of the difficulties! 3 stars, not 4.
with Michael Mason
Pitches 1 and 3 of four. Great climbing, marred slightly by lots of powder stomping between the steep bits. The mixed chimney on P3 was the highlight for me, though the short ice sections on the first two pitches are great too. Long way to the summit from the top of the difficulties! 3 stars, not 4.
with Michael Mason
Col Kingshott 7 Mar, 2018 Lead O/S Snow softening noticeably through the day. Steady climbing.
Snow softening noticeably through the day. Steady climbing.
Connorh 6 Mar, 2018 AltLd O/S Bit of an epic. Good route, I'd say its not in ideal condition right now and needs more ice.
Bit of an epic. Good route, I'd say its not in ideal condition right now and needs more ice.
jackob 6 Mar, 2018 Lead Bit of an epic, spindrift hell and managed to drop my rucksack off the top. Amateur hour today
Bit of an epic, spindrift hell and managed to drop my rucksack off the top. Amateur hour today
arose 5 Mar, 2018 Lead great nick. the third pitch is currently tech 5 with very little helpful ice
with Clients
great nick. the third pitch is currently tech 5 with very little helpful ice
with Clients
Marl 3 Mar, 2018 2nd O/S Great route & conditions pretty good
with Rob M, Andy M
Great route & conditions pretty good
with Rob M, Andy M
garethshellard 26 Feb, 2018 AltLd O/S
with ollie1
with ollie1
ollie1 26 Feb, 2018 Lead O/S Great climb, the left fork pitch was thin but enjoyable as a rock climb.
Great climb, the left fork pitch was thin but enjoyable as a rock climb.
Hidden 23 Feb, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 8 Feb, 2018 AltLd dnf
pipmccarthy 5 Feb, 2018 AltLd O/S Excellent first two pitches. Left hand crack too thin and cruddy so did right-hand variation, but tough with loose snow in chimney and partially frozen turf. Screwed up navigation on top and got back to car for 9pm
with matus
Excellent first two pitches. Left hand crack too thin and cruddy so did right-hand variation, but tough with loose snow in chimney and partially frozen turf. Screwed up navigation on top and got back to car for 9pm
with matus
Hidden 5 Feb, 2018 AltLd rpt
CHarrison 3 Feb, 2018 Lead dnf Climbed a bit of P1 before backing off because nothing was frozen or consolidated. Took the gear for a walk around the crag before just wandering upto the summit then down to the pub. Looks like a nice route and one I’d be keen to come back too
with Robin Sillem (NMC)
Climbed a bit of P1 before backing off because nothing was frozen or consolidated. Took the gear for a walk around the crag before just wandering upto the summit then down to the pub. Looks like a nice route and one I’d be keen to come back too
with Robin Sillem (NMC)
Rhys Deane 2 Feb, 2018 AltLd
Peter Metcalfe 13 Jan, 2018 AltLd
joe_lancs 13 Jan, 2018 AltLd took right hand variant at small amphitheatre then a pretty direct line straight up at about IV. Lots of unconsolidated snow on slabs in the upper section. A long way from top of guidebook pitches to summit!
took right hand variant at small amphitheatre then a pretty direct line straight up at about IV. Lots of unconsolidated snow on slabs in the upper section. A long way from top of guidebook pitches to summit!
Hidden 7 Jan, 2018 -
mike mo 7 Jan, 2018 -
mike mo 7 Jan, 2018 -
kbow265 ?Jan, 2018 AltLd dnf
Ghastlyrabbitfat ??, 2018 -
Rank_Bajin ??, 2018 -
nickdonohue 4 Mar, 2017 Lead A great route; long (!) and kept on going when you thought the summit must be near! The exit from the amphitheatre was our crux (though we had 3 really interesting and enjoyable technical steps in the 1st two pitches). Just doable (in terms of safe consolidation) when we did it. The snow surface seemed solid but wasn't frozen to its base so was liable to collapse to the gully base and occasionally break off in a big chunk.
A great route; long (!) and kept on going when you thought the summit must be near! The exit from the amphitheatre was our crux (though we had 3 really interesting and enjoyable technical steps in the 1st two pitches). Just doable (in terms of safe consolidation) when we did it. The snow surface seemed solid but wasn't frozen to its base so was liable to collapse to the gully base and occasionally break off in a big chunk.
Hidden 4 Mar, 2017 2nd
Hidden 30 Jan, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 6 Mar, 2016 AltLd
davemccrave666 14 Feb, 2016 AltLd O/S The route was in pretty poor shape. Unconsolidated snow and certainly no worthy ice meant a lack of protection for some parts. Would be a great route in full condition. It just kept on going!
The route was in pretty poor shape. Unconsolidated snow and certainly no worthy ice meant a lack of protection for some parts. Would be a great route in full condition. It just kept on going!
jamiefoxen 14 Feb, 2016 AltLd
joesmith 16 Jan, 2016 -
with Simon Davidson
with Simon Davidson
Mike Roger ??, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 27 Feb, 2015 -
Andrew Sloan 21 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S In very poor condition with unconsolidated snow and ice. Very tenuous and insecure, felt like V,6 today. Took right exit from amphitheatre although the ice smear on the left would probably have been climbable albeit a bit thin. Abseiled off after the main difficulties from 150m up due to impending darkness.
with Steve Grove
In very poor condition with unconsolidated snow and ice. Very tenuous and insecure, felt like V,6 today. Took right exit from amphitheatre although the ice smear on the left would probably have been climbable albeit a bit thin. Abseiled off after the main difficulties from 150m up due to impending darkness.
with Steve Grove
LucaC 14 Feb, 2015 Lead O/S A bit thin on ice, and I thought the gear was somewhat uninspiring on the first two pitches.
with Alex
A bit thin on ice, and I thought the gear was somewhat uninspiring on the first two pitches.
with Alex
davkeo 8 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S Nice bonus pitch at top. Cracking day with good variety of climbing.
Nice bonus pitch at top. Cracking day with good variety of climbing.
Hidden 8 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 8 Feb, 2015 Lead
rob16 8 Feb, 2015 AltLd
with Matt Brook
with Matt Brook
Roger Pyddoke 7 Feb, 2015 AltLd
with Robert
with Robert
Hidden 7 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 7 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S
Olli-C 7 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S Awesome, 3d ice and top class mixed. Was starting to get a bit melty.
with Pete Edwards
Awesome, 3d ice and top class mixed. Was starting to get a bit melty.
with Pete Edwards
Diggler 6 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S
with jonah
with jonah
Hidden 6 Feb, 2015 AltLd
planetmarshall 6 Feb, 2015 AltLd Stunning day of Alpine conditions in Glencoe, but found the climb itself underwhelming. Perhaps the stars are for the historical significance.
Stunning day of Alpine conditions in Glencoe, but found the climb itself underwhelming. Perhaps the stars are for the historical significance.
GlennWatson 5 Feb, 2015 AltLd
with Ken Christie
with Ken Christie
Ken Christie 5 Feb, 2015 AltLd
stoneback 5 Feb, 2015 2nd Full on mountain day, 6 hrs roped up plus a decent yomp. Brilliant varied route, good ice most of the way. Blue skies too!!
Full on mountain day, 6 hrs roped up plus a decent yomp. Brilliant varied route, good ice most of the way. Blue skies too!!
Ken Applegate 5 Feb, 2015 Lead Brilliant esoteric climbing in another of Glencoe's atmospheric gullies. Found a great pitch of grade 4 ice towards the top too. http://www.applemountaineering.co.uk/2015/02/05/deep-cut-chimney-stob-coire-nam-beith-glencoe/
with Nick S
Brilliant esoteric climbing in another of Glencoe's atmospheric gullies. Found a great pitch of grade 4 ice towards the top too. http://www.applemountaineering.co.uk/2015/02/05/deep-cut-chimney-stob-coire-nam-beith-glencoe/
with Nick S
plain kitten 1 Feb, 2015 AltLd
Mark Stevenson 1 Feb, 2015 Solo O/S
RocKalina ?Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Mark, climberandy
with Mark, climberandy
Brucemacrosson ?Feb, 2015 AltLd
with David Small
with David Small
chrisallan 31 Jan, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Jan, 2015 AltLd
Nick Wallis ??, 2015 -
with Stan, BMC international meet
with Stan, BMC international meet
yesbutnobutyesbut ??, 2014 -
MadProfessor 12 Apr, 2013 - Condition: "Interesting". Vairable quality ice and neve, and three short but quite pokey mixed sections. Since it was snowing most of the day, the gullies and slopes at the top had lots of unconsolidated snow. A full-on winter's outing.
Condition: "Interesting". Vairable quality ice and neve, and three short but quite pokey mixed sections. Since it was snowing most of the day, the gullies and slopes at the top had lots of unconsolidated snow. A full-on winter's outing.
Stuart Johnston 1 Apr, 2013 AltLd O/S Great route. First pitch was quite dry at the crux and so awkward to get over the buldge. The rest was pretty straight forward, but surprisingly long!
with adam 24, Dave Cowell
Great route. First pitch was quite dry at the crux and so awkward to get over the buldge. The rest was pretty straight forward, but surprisingly long!
with adam 24, Dave Cowell
adam 24 31 Mar, 2013 2nd O/S
Hidden 24 Mar, 2013 Lead
Andrew Sloan 2 Mar, 2013 AltLd dnf Steve led 1st pitch, lean and melting. I was 15m up 2nd pitch when steve hit by falling rock. As he was profusely bleeding from a cut to his forehead we abseilled off and headed to A and E. Will come back and do it when in full winter condition as looks like a very good route.
with Steve Grove
Steve led 1st pitch, lean and melting. I was 15m up 2nd pitch when steve hit by falling rock. As he was profusely bleeding from a cut to his forehead we abseilled off and headed to A and E. Will come back and do it when in full winter condition as looks like a very good route.
with Steve Grove
darrenasquith 2 Mar, 2013 AltLd
James Gordon ?Mar, 2013 -
lawrenceK 22 Feb, 2013 AltLd Good neve/ice, finished by NW gully right fork
Good neve/ice, finished by NW gully right fork
kenneM 12 Feb, 2013 Lead Good day and conditions ok, although snow a bit soft. Climbed with Paul.
with Paul Elliott
Good day and conditions ok, although snow a bit soft. Climbed with Paul.
with Paul Elliott
SteveHolmes 10 Feb, 2013 AltLd
with Dunx
with Dunx
Dunx 10 Feb, 2013 AltLd
Captain Solo 9 Feb, 2013 AltLd A bit soft but well banked out and still plenty of ice. Wall pitch well iced, continued on up to summit, a good route but not ****.
with Brian
A bit soft but well banked out and still plenty of ice. Wall pitch well iced, continued on up to summit, a good route but not ****.
with Brian
Hidden 19 Jan, 2013 Lead
edmitchell 19 Jan, 2013 Lead O/S up to the ampitheatre. Lean conditions around first step, would be easier if banked out
up to the ampitheatre. Lean conditions around first step, would be easier if banked out
dawp4810 ?Jan, 2013 2nd
DougSt ??, 2013 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Hidden ??, 2012 -
PAJames ??, 2011 -
drew8connelly ??, 2011 -
adie84 ??, 2011 -
Ian Jones 22 Dec, 2010 2nd dnf In poor condition. Baled at the birfurcation.
In poor condition. Baled at the birfurcation.
Hidden 22 Dec, 2010 Lead dnf
Hidden 27 Nov, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17 Mar, 2010 2nd
John Carney 12 Mar, 2010 2nd O/S
with Rob Jarvis
with Rob Jarvis
joe king 2 Mar, 2010 AltLd O/S
with steve pettit
with steve pettit
steveP 2 Mar, 2010 AltLd O/S
Adi Hooper 16 Feb, 2010 AltLd Superb route all the way to the summit. Down via An t-Sron.
with Roger Ward
Superb route all the way to the summit. Down via An t-Sron.
with Roger Ward
Hidden ??, 2010 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2010 -
davebrox ??, 2009 Lead With Cath Wilson
With Cath Wilson
Hidden 26 Mar, 2008 AltLd
smithaldo 29 Feb, 2008 AltLd O/S lots of snow, pretty difficult conditions. Lovely climb though.
with andreas
lots of snow, pretty difficult conditions. Lovely climb though.
with andreas
pete dd ?Mar, 2007 Lead β
with Iain Swan
with Iain Swan
gregor ?Feb, 2007 -
Hidden ??, 2006 AltLd
DerwentDiluted ?Feb, 2003 AltLd
with J. Ellson
with J. Ellson
pugilistswine 5 Feb, 2002 2nd O/S PYB Climbing with Nick Banks
with Nick Banks
PYB Climbing with Nick Banks
with Nick Banks
bandersnatch ?Feb, 2000 Lead
nickcanute ?Jan, 2000 AltLd
with tim parkinson
with tim parkinson
Hidden ??, 2000 -
DaveHK 13 Feb, 1999 AltLd
with Brian Dickson, Martina Osterloh
with Brian Dickson, Martina Osterloh
Hidden ?Feb, 1999 Solo
Neil McA 9 Mar, 1997 Lead O/S
with Nick Marriot
with Nick Marriot
Hidden ?Feb, 1997 Lead
Hidden 9 Mar, 1996 AltLd
Hidden ?Mar, 1996 -
NeilGriffiths ??, 1996 -
with Steve Roberts
with Steve Roberts
mattnuttall 27 Jan, 1995 Lead O/S
with Dan (SCUM), Pete (SCUM)
with Dan (SCUM), Pete (SCUM)
NickR ?Feb, 1994 Lead
pauldrew ??, 1994 AltLd
Hidden ?Mar, 1993 -
Nick_Scots ?Nov, 1992 2nd
Nick_Scots 12 Nov, 1991 2nd dnf
with Peter Davis
with Peter Davis
mark-abz 2 Feb, 1991 AltLd
with Simon K
with Simon K
Hidden ??, 1990 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Feb, 1986 AltLd
biggianthead 3 Mar, 1984 -
with HT
with HT
steveb2006 14 Feb, 1984 AltLd Reach the amphitheatre before a difficult traverse left to find an exit.
with Terry Lister
Reach the amphitheatre before a difficult traverse left to find an exit.
with Terry Lister
Hidden 12 Feb, 1978 AltLd
Lone Rider ??, 1978 Solo Soloed right fork late 70's i think.
Soloed right fork late 70's i think.
Derek Ryden 29 Mar, 1975 Lead Peg for aid on first pitch
with Brian Evans
Peg for aid on first pitch
with Brian Evans
Hidden ?Feb, 1968 -
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Voting
High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Mid III
Low III
Votes cast 21
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
High 3
Mid 3
Low 3
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 21
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest

North Buttress - West Route (Winter)

Grade: IV 4 ***
(Buachaille Etive Mor)