UKH

335m.

Rockfax Description
A mighty fine Deep Water Solo (DWS) traverse that crosses the terrain linking the Old Redoubt's Great Cave to the headland to the south. The climbing is steep and sustained but fun, and for the most part on generous holds. A couple of huge rockfalls on the headland have significantly altered the end of the traverse and at low water the finish is not above a safe amount of water, although swimming is always an option. Around 350m of climbing. Start at low tide in the Great Cave. Scramble into the back of the Great Cave and traverse back out steeply on its opposite wall to gain a tidal ledge (the start of Moonraker). Continue on good holds and pass an overhanging buttress, either very low on barnacles, or high on more difficult ground. Continue along to a steep black wall. Climb up this, then traverse to the Green Grotto, where you may have to get damp feet to pass across its entrance to the opposite side. Follow the juggy wall beyond The Green Grotto all the way along to the edge of the much bigger Blue Grotto entrance. Head through the Blue Grotto to emerge on the other side of the headland (via a span to cross from one side of the grotto to the other). If damp, the climbing through the Blue Grotto becomes much harder and if the tide is low then a swim/wade may be a safer option at one point. Finish by scrambling up to the coastal footpath which leads back to the car park and descent path to the Great Cave. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Rockfall November 2018 means the traditional finish of swimming to the promontory and scrambling back up to the mainland is no longer possible. All climbers must continue through the Blue Grotto to the far side of the headland. The climbing is excellent 6a+ but harder if the humidity is high. It is fairly straightforward to swim through the cave if the tide isn't running too strongly.

FA. Rusty Baillie, John Cleare (some aid) 31/Dec/1967. FFA. Frank Cannngs, Pete Biven 03/Jan/1968.

Ticklists

Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice , West Country Climbs , South coast sport/DWS ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist , Best Mid Grade Sea Cliff Traverses , Adventure ticklist 2018 , Extreme Girdle , Devon DWS progression , University of Exeter must tick's , Libby Peter's HVS Hit List , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Traverses of trady radness , 2020 Vision , I want a Pasty! , The Art of the Granite Crab , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , DWS200 - Dream Targets up to 7b+ , Top 25 E Grades in the southwest , Cream first! , Dan’s Delights , South West Coast Traversing ticklist

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Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 65
Votes cast 93
Style of Ascent
DWS
Soloed
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Close to the Edge

Grade: 6a+ S2 ***
(Berry Head Quarry)

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