Restricted Access

It is important that climbers wanting to deepwater solo on these crags MUST call Brixham Maritime Rescue Co-ordination Centre on (01803) 882 704 before descending to the base of the cliffs. Climbers have caused a number of false call outs in the past - this creates significant problems for the rescue service and may jepordise future access on the Nature Reserve.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Berry Head is becoming a mecca for deep water soloing, but it is also an important breeding site for many seabirds. Historically, access was completely restricted during breeding but thanks to the efforts of local climbers, the BMC and Torbay Coast and Countryside Trust, the restriction has been made variable. This means it will be lifted as soon as nesting has been completed. The variable restriction has been granted on the condition that the following is adhered to:

1) The Great Cave and pitch 1 of Rainbow Bridge is still covered by the restriction (1st March to 31st July) and NO ACCESS is permitted. This is because the birds frequent the large platform. The standard approach for Rainbow Bridge (and The Great Cave) crosses this platform and will disturb the birds so climbers must choose one of the following options: a) Abseil from the metal post en route to The Great Cave (just beyond a red access notice) to an in-situ thread at the end of pitch 1. b) Down-climb HVS rock just to the left (looking out) of the post. This is not recommended for those who don't know the route.

2) The final Terminal Zawn (pitch 11) is still restricted. A marker just before this shows the extent of the ban. Climbers should exit up VS territory above the marker.

3) Access restrictions still apply to the following: - White Rhino Tea Buttress (Barnacle Traverse Continuation) - The Oz Wall - The Ledges above the Oz wall, beyond the Terminal Zawn. - The Great Cave and Bismark Wall. Markers have been positioned at both ends of the "open" section and these will show whether or not you are allowed on the traverse. This can be checked by contacting the Berry Head Rangers office (01803 882619).

Please contact the ranger if you are confused about cliff accessibility. A few other considerations: If you fall into the sea (during the restricted nesting season) getting out is now much more problematic as you must NOT get out at the Great Cave ledge (doing so would disturb the nesting birds). Those concerned by this should opt to abseil in (see b above) - doing this allows you to leave a rope through the in-situ thread at the base of the abseil to facilitate pulling out of the sea....or make the big swim to the ‘ Red Walls’ area.

9m.

Rockfax Description
A classic Devon DWS. From the end of the Oz Wall Traverse keep traversing above the Cavewoman sea-cave to below the next wildly overhung buttress. Traverse to a crack in the middle of the buttress. Go up the crack-line and gain a jutting block. Move out right to a pocket and then up rightwards on good holds to easier ground. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
One of Devon classic Deep Water Solos.

FA. Dave Henderson 01/Aug/1998.

Ticklists

South coast sport/DWS ticklist , Devon DWS progression , Moving to Devon , 2020-2021 Deep Water Solo Goals , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , DWS200 - Dream Targets up to 7b+ , Devon - Berry Head , Cream first! , South England DWS Dreams

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Voting
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 44
Votes cast 43
Style of Ascent
DWS
Soloed
Lead
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Me and My Magnum

Grade: 6c+ ***
(Babbacombe Crags)

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