UKH

No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists

Classic Rock, Ultimate Scottish Rock, UK's best Diffs and V.diffs, In the footsteps of the Cairngorm Tigers, Scottish Classic Rock, Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes, 2013 Scottish Multi Pitch Mission, 2016 Targets, The Original 'Classic Rock' List, UK Holiday Plans, RGU challange list, Scottish Rock Benchmarks, EUMC - Must do climbs, Garry Latter, Scottish Ticklist up to VS, STAUMC Ticklist, Cairngorm Classic Rock Challenge, RGU Shelterstone

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User Date Notes
Simon Theobald 25 Jul Show βeta
βeta: 40 year old ambition fulfilled to do this super remote classic climb. Surely one of the best VDiffs in the UK. We walked in from Braemar Castle which involves fording the River Dee (knee depth at the moment but probably not recommended after rain). The walk-in is long (9 miles) but easy and pleasant- 3.5 hours up and 3 hours down at a gentle but steady pace. You could probably save 1 hour either way by cycling up to about two thirds of the way from Invercauld Bridge car park. The climb is magnificent with great exposure and a mixture of delicate and jamming type moves. Large cam helpful for the crux moves on the top pitch. I’m not used to granite which feels a bit like gritstone with few positive handholds but even so it’s VDiff grade felt about right.
 
Show beta
βeta: 40 year old ambition fulfilled to do this super remote classic climb. Surely one of the best VDiffs in the UK. We walked in from Braemar Castle which involves fording the River Dee (knee depth at the moment but probably not recommended after rain). The walk-in is long (9 miles) but easy and pleasant- 3.5 hours up and 3 hours down at a gentle but steady pace. You could probably save 1 hour either way by cycling up to about two thirds of the way from Invercauld Bridge car park. The climb is magnificent with great exposure and a mixture of delicate and jamming type moves. Large cam helpful for the crux moves on the top pitch. I’m not used to granite which feels a bit like gritstone with few positive handholds but even so it’s VDiff grade felt about right.
skinne 12 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Watch out for loose blocks masquerading as embedded stone in the soil at the base; some really big stuff slid out of the dirt from under our feet!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Watch out for loose blocks masquerading as embedded stone in the soil at the base; some really big stuff slid out of the dirt from under our feet!
JWS 6 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Absolutely fantastic route. Hard to think of a better V.Diff. If you are short of time, then check out where the route actually is before you set off. That way, you can avoid a scenic, but strenous, tour of all of the other corries on Beinn a' Bhuird.
 
Show beta
βeta: Absolutely fantastic route. Hard to think of a better V.Diff. If you are short of time, then check out where the route actually is before you set off. That way, you can avoid a scenic, but strenous, tour of all of the other corries on Beinn a' Bhuird.
jon59 15 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Great route, lead the whole thing. Sopping wet first pitch, damp 2 + 3 pitch. The wetnesss made the 2nd pitch traverse and the 3rd pitch layback a bit interesting today.
 
Show beta
βeta: Great route, lead the whole thing. Sopping wet first pitch, damp 2 + 3 pitch. The wetnesss made the 2nd pitch traverse and the 3rd pitch layback a bit interesting today.

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Voting
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
High HD
Mid HD
Low HD
Votes cast 58
Votes cast 60
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

No 1 Chimney

Grade: VD ***
(Clachnaben)
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