Rockfax Description
90m. This little gem of a route combines continuously exposed climbing with impressive situations and is remarkable for its low technical standard. The face dries quickly after rain. The left side of this face is a stepped arête bordering the north face. Start just round the crest of the arête.
1. 40m Climb cracks and grooves to a large platform, then the arête to below an overhang.
2. 25m Launch out on to the wall by a 10m traverse, past the first vertical crack, then climb straight up and left to a platform on the edge.
3. 25m Return to the face and follow cracks up right for 10m to a short horizontal crack. Just to the right a deep fissure cleaves the final section. Either climb the fissure (Severe), or layback a flake on the right for 4m, then leave it for a shelf on the right, thence gain the top by an awkward traverse.
FA T.W.Patey, J.M.Taylor, Jul 1953 © Rockfax
Ticklists
Classic Rock , Ultimate Scottish Rock , UK's best Diffs and V.diffs , In the footsteps of the Cairngorm Tigers , Scottish Classic Rock , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , 2013 Scottish Multi Pitch Mission , 2016 Targets , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , UK Holiday Plans , RGU challange list , Scottish Rock Benchmarks , EUMC - Must do climbs , Garry Latter, Scottish Ticklist up to VS , STAUMC Ticklist , Cairngorm Classic Rock Challenge , RGU Shelterstone , 4 Star Scottish rock , Carrotte's summer sends (multi pitch edition) , Dan's Scottish Summer Hopefuls , A.P's summer , Lairig hitlist , V Diff and Severes - North East Outcrops Selection , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist , The Classic, Easy Scottish Mountain Routes , Matt's Bucketlist , (V)Diffs to end all (V)Diffs , 5 (V)Diffs to end all (V)Diffs , Greg's bucket list
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| planetmarshall | 4 Sep, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: If taking MTBs from Invercauld, persevere and you can get as far as the river crossing at NO 113 989, leaving a 2km hike up to the sneck. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: If taking MTBs from Invercauld, persevere and you can get as far as the river crossing at NO 113 989, leaving a 2km hike up to the sneck. |
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| ClimberPentir | 23 Jun, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Finding the buttress was the main problem. Of note, the grid reference and height of the base of the route in the SMC greatest hits book is incorrect; these should be: NJ 110 0118 1025M | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Finding the buttress was the main problem. Of note, the grid reference and height of the base of the route in the SMC greatest hits book is incorrect; these should be: NJ 110 0118 1025M |
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| Simon Theobald | 25 Jul, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: 40 year old ambition fulfilled to do this super remote classic climb. Surely one of the best VDiffs in the UK. We walked in from Braemar Castle which involves fording the River Dee (knee depth at the moment but probably not recommended after rain). The walk-in is long (9 miles) but easy and pleasant- 3.5 hours up and 3 hours down at a gentle but steady pace. You could probably save 1 hour either way by cycling up to about two thirds of the way from Invercauld Bridge car park. The climb is magnificent with great exposure and a mixture of delicate and jamming type moves. Large cam helpful for the crux moves on the top pitch. I’m not used to granite which feels a bit like gritstone with few positive handholds but even so it’s VDiff grade felt about right. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: 40 year old ambition fulfilled to do this super remote classic climb. Surely one of the best VDiffs in the UK. We walked in from Braemar Castle which involves fording the River Dee (knee depth at the moment but probably not recommended after rain). The walk-in is long (9 miles) but easy and pleasant- 3.5 hours up and 3 hours down at a gentle but steady pace. You could probably save 1 hour either way by cycling up to about two thirds of the way from Invercauld Bridge car park. The climb is magnificent with great exposure and a mixture of delicate and jamming type moves. Large cam helpful for the crux moves on the top pitch. I’m not used to granite which feels a bit like gritstone with few positive handholds but even so it’s VDiff grade felt about right. |
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| skinne | 12 Jul, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Watch out for loose blocks masquerading as embedded stone in the soil at the base; some really big stuff slid out of the dirt from under our feet! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Watch out for loose blocks masquerading as embedded stone in the soil at the base; some really big stuff slid out of the dirt from under our feet! |
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| JWS | 6 Jun, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Absolutely fantastic route. Hard to think of a better V.Diff. If you are short of time, then check out where the route actually is before you set off. That way, you can avoid a scenic, but strenous, tour of all of the other corries on Beinn a' Bhuird. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Absolutely fantastic route. Hard to think of a better V.Diff. If you are short of time, then check out where the route actually is before you set off. That way, you can avoid a scenic, but strenous, tour of all of the other corries on Beinn a' Bhuird. |
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| jon59 | 15 Jun, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Great route, lead the whole thing. Sopping wet first pitch, damp 2 + 3 pitch. The wetnesss made the 2nd pitch traverse and the 3rd pitch layback a bit interesting today. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Great route, lead the whole thing. Sopping wet first pitch, damp 2 + 3 pitch. The wetnesss made the 2nd pitch traverse and the 3rd pitch layback a bit interesting today. |
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Logged Ascents
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No 1 Chimney
Grade: VD ***
(Clachnaben)