Please access Bamford only by the reccomended access path in the Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2005) guide. This access point is beside a layby next to an obvious marked gate with a stile. Previous guides have mentioned an access point by an iron gate and an old ruin - please do NOT use this.
Bamford is included within a long term restriction for dogs on open access land (the restriction covers the whole of Moscar, Derwent and Hallam Moors). Dogs are still allowed on public rights of way, but not on the access land to the sides or on footpaths that are not designated as rights of way. Given that there are no rights of way that run under the crag, please do not take dogs climbing with you as this could damage the currently good relationship climbers enjoy with the landowner.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 15 May to 13 June
Reason: Other
Ring ouzels nest on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford each year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Rockfax Description
The right-hand line with two pairs of strange pockets that provide both holds and awkward-to-thread runners. Start past another pocket, or the groove to the right. © Rockfax
FA. Martin Veale 1980.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Eastern Grit E1s
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
HaleAlex | 17 Oct, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Couldn't reach the second pocket on lead/get the confidence to try the sketchy intermediate hold. Found a different beta after retreating and doing on second with some nasty intermediate pebble crimp | ||
Show beta
βeta: Couldn't reach the second pocket on lead/get the confidence to try the sketchy intermediate hold. Found a different beta after retreating and doing on second with some nasty intermediate pebble crimp |
||||
Alan James - Rockfax | 4 Sep, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Going up with right-hand from second pocket with left fingers around the thread gets a good bit of the top. Doing it this way makes placing the second thread less crucial (and that is the crux if you place it). | ||
Show beta
βeta: Going up with right-hand from second pocket with left fingers around the thread gets a good bit of the top. Doing it this way makes placing the second thread less crucial (and that is the crux if you place it). |
||||
TomYoung | 19 Oct, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Threaded a nut rather than a sling at second set of pockets. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Threaded a nut rather than a sling at second set of pockets. |
||||
cem | 5 Jun, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: I'd suggest it's a seriously bad idea to miss out the second thread & go straight for the top. That's what I did & I soon regretted it when I was fighting to top out without falling off. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I'd suggest it's a seriously bad idea to miss out the second thread & go straight for the top. That's what I did & I soon regretted it when I was fighting to top out without falling off. |
||||
Mick B | 30 Sep, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Having to make an intermediate move to reach the second pocket certainly felt 5c to me. Worth doing. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Having to make an intermediate move to reach the second pocket certainly felt 5c to me. Worth doing. |
||||
Cottie | 17 Apr, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: I can reach between the pockets but found the crux placing the second thread. Wish I'd not bothered and just gone straight for the top | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I can reach between the pockets but found the crux placing the second thread. Wish I'd not bothered and just gone straight for the top |
||||
Nick Smith - Climbers | 13 Oct, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: The only gear on this route are 2 threads (one per pocket) - the top thread being particularly hard to place while hanging on! Pumpy. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The only gear on this route are 2 threads (one per pocket) - the top thread being particularly hard to place while hanging on! Pumpy. |
||||
Tyler | 13 Oct, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: I'm 5'9" (and a half!) and found the move hard, had to undercut the poorer RH pocket and bringmy leg up into the LH one and then pull on the pebble. Wouldn't argue with 6a but if you're over 6a it may seem like 5a | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I'm 5'9" (and a half!) and found the move hard, had to undercut the poorer RH pocket and bringmy leg up into the LH one and then pull on the pebble. Wouldn't argue with 6a but if you're over 6a it may seem like 5a |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Chee Dale Lower)