Restricted Access

July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

Rockfax Description
A technical groove followed by an entertaining roof. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
On the level above Looning the Tube (By the Looning the Tube Belay Bolt) Left of Cyber World Sl@te Heads.Climb the technical groove before tackling the entertaining roof...5 Bolts lead the way to a Lower Off.

I Lloyd-Jones, T Hughes, P Targett 28/Aug/2007.

Ticklists

Slate Roofs , Slate Sport , All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 6a & 6a+ , AMC Uni Ticklist , UK "Orange Spot Sport" - The Best of The Rest? , Rock cats getting strong , Starred Slate Sport Sixes , Sl@teheads Sl@te , York University Students path to greatness , Slate Mastery , Wales Trip - 2022 , Slate Pyramid

Feedback

User Date Notes
Andy Watts 20 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Wonderful and varied climbing with great moves.
βeta?
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βeta: Wonderful and varied climbing with great moves.
Ian Ford 8 Oct, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: I didn’t find any choose. Super clean and fun route.
βeta?
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βeta: I didn’t find any choose. Super clean and fun route.
ArlieH 23 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Lots of choss at the anchor, beware! Don’t decapitate your belayer
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lots of choss at the anchor, beware! Don’t decapitate your belayer
Mike Hammill 27 Nov, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The original lower off consisted of two bolts drilled into a block embedded in the slate waste above. The holes were drilled parallel to the slate cleavage. The left hand bolt split the block and part of it fell off some time ago. Another bolt was placed! The bolts will probably cause further fractures in the block - so lower off the last bolt.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The original lower off consisted of two bolts drilled into a block embedded in the slate waste above. The holes were drilled parallel to the slate cleavage. The left hand bolt split the block and part of it fell off some time ago. Another bolt was placed! The bolts will probably cause further fractures in the block - so lower off the last bolt.
AdJS 26 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The lower-off has been moved to a position lower than it was before but it does not affect the grade.
βeta?
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βeta: The lower-off has been moved to a position lower than it was before but it does not affect the grade.
jake7 8 Nov, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Very loose jug just before the overhang - be careful
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very loose jug just before the overhang - be careful
TopRopeHero 14 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Heel hooks at the top make light work of the roof. Footholds are polished further down on the groove.
Show beta
βeta: Heel hooks at the top make light work of the roof. Footholds are polished further down on the groove.

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